Camp # 33, Days 101 to 105 – Cooktown, QLD

Driving to Cooktown took us through yet again more rapidly changing and varied country. Tropical coastal rainforest, hills and farming land, burnt out bush, bush and scrub and vast open grassy plains always with a mountain range in the back ground. The Great Dividing Range is never far away, we have been traveling along side and or through it continuiously since we hit the east coast or OZ at Byron Bay.

We stop for lunch at a spectacular look out. The views were stunning, bush loo’s well kept and the information boards on this area of Far North Queensland (FNQ) fantastic. And a steady flow of chatting and interesting travelers. We love chatting to folk. It’s really the done thing but you learn so much and it just add another shade of colour to your day. While reading these info boards, a couple of artsy gay gentlemen shared with me about the aboriginal artist briefly mentioned, Thancoupie. They had worked with her and warmly spoke of her gift of sculpture and the invaluable children’s books she wrote in her language. A brief but brilliant encounter.

While we were keen to stay at any number of the free camps in the area we were drawn to the town to make it easy to ready ourselve for the trip to the cape. Once settle we found ourselve right at home here and ended up extending our 3 day stay to 5 days. Our first night was a bit of a shamozzle but things improved and finding I am already looking forward to returning to Cooktown.

We chose to ride the bikes into town to explore before the sun went down and grab and early dinner. But as we arrived and the children started to play at the playground we were beckoned over by an aboriginal man and lady, Val, who was not feeling well and needing help to get to the hospital. Being on the bikes we weren’t much help but after spending a bit of time with her and trying to suss out the taxi service in Cooktown we ended up placing a 000 call to get her there. I think she had a complicated medical history and was probably sceptic. She was a bit off the plant but a sweet natured lady grateful for the kindness.

Before the Ambulance I tried the taxi service only to get a recorded message saying they were closed after 5pm and if this was an emergency you’d better let them know before 4 p.m. Good to know I’ll be sure to plan all my emergency before 4 p.m. next time …… Love it!

While I was helping Val it got dark so Ken took the kids to the bowls club for dinner (very average meal only adding the failing of the night), locked our bikes up out the front only to realize he had the wrong keys to unlock them again. Doh! And the gate on the kids play area was nackered and pinched Lulu, resulting in her screaming the place down on two occasions. A stroke of luck resulted in Ken getting a lift back to the caravan park to get the right keys and following and uneventful ride home we happy to just get back to Goldilocks without any further incidents.

The rest of our time in Cooktown went smoothly and now as I reflect on what we did and who we met I see clearly why I have such fond feelings for Cooktown.

We met fellow Zoners (the collective name given to folks the own a Zone RV caravan), Frank and Wendy. Turns out their van was the next one of the factory floor following ours so it was super handy sharing experience and knowledge. We also learnt about there experience heading to the tip of Australia as they had just returned. A lovely couple whom we hope to meet on the road again. Uncle Peter as he came to be know, local celebrity, school bus driver, shaker and mover of Hay (Central NSW). What a real Aussie ledgend. He was our neighbour, loved a chat, loved the kids, generous to a fault, even came and did a school lesson for them on Hay. And then there was the boys from Tassie who caught enough fish to feed most of the caravan park and they did. The freezer is still half full of fish!

There was the usually, washing, cooking, schooling, cleaning, child wrangling etc to be done, but amongst all that, a visit to The Captain James Cook Museum, a visit to the Cooktown Historical Centre, an amazing prawn and avocado roll, brunch at a little oasis of a cafe called Driftwood, and a sunset cruise on the Endevour River including the best cheese platter ever. Enjoyed in complete darkness, sitting silently in a mangrove accompanied by our first wild croc, (too dark for photographs). A large, majestic, graceful mover in the water, thrilling would sum up that experience.

Finally our time at Cooktown finished with a splendid sunset and the sweetest prawns i’ve ever eaten, a top the very same ‘Grassy Hill’ Cook, Banks and a few other crew from the Endevour climb to attain better knowledge of their surrounding lands and water.

Thank you Cooktown!

Our favorite little cafe – Driftwood. A must visit for delicious food and coffee. Run by really nice folks as well.

# 21.01 – Coolum Beach, QLD

It felt exciting heading to Coolum. Probably for two reasons, firstly Ken and I had been here before but for only a day and secondly, the focus of the first six weeks of travels has been about getting to Coolum to have Goldilocks fixed up and all the outstanding issues sorted.

But that excitement faded pretty quickly as we were faced with the daunting task of unloading most of the contents of the van in preparation of it going into the workshop early the next morning. Arriving not long before dark, with rain imminent, and no parking near the accommodation it made this task even less enjoyable.

In the end I gave up, the now heavy rain and 100 meter walk up a steep hill each load beat my usually sunny and determined nature to complete a job and complete it well.

The week ahead saw Ken returning to Perth for work and the arrival of Grandma and Papa in Coolum for a visit, holiday and support. It was also a great opportunity to re-organize and re-evaluate the contents of the van and a high priority was to really getting the homeschooling established! So all in all it was going to be a busy week.

Ken departed and the rain persisted for the first day or two but that didn’t stop the girls enjoying the swimming in the pool. The accommodation was well laid out, as I could be standing by our front door keeping an ear on Llewella while she slept and watch the girls in the pool at the same time. The weather isn’t particularly warm but nor is it too cool either with a little humidity, low twenty’s everyday, and this is winter.

Grandma and Papa arrived in the dark to much excitement. We shared a quick meal at the surf club and then got the kids to bed before a catch up. With trying to get a schooling routine established we decided to not catch up till 10am each morning giving the girls a chance to get some work done and Grandma and Papa a little time to themselves to sleep in, walk the beach or go for a coffee at one of the many coffee spots.

The first day we just walked the main drag, visited the beach, playground, lunch at a delicious French cafe and the information centre to help us decide what we may like to do. The girls got another long swim in the afternoon with Papa supervising this time, which turned out to be a regular arvo thing.

Noosa was just 20 mins up the road. We all squeezed in the car, the back seat was pretty crowded with 3 and a baby seat, but we got there. We headed to the national park to do one of the well designated walks and work up an appetite before lunch. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining and I had put the kids bathers under the pram just Incase.

It was more of a meandering stroll than anything worthy of the lunch that was to come but delightful and scenic all the way. We got to Tea Tree Bay but the white powdery sand and clear still waters were too much to pass by and we had a lovely hour or two playing, paddling and swimming in total paradise.

For lunch we ended up at the most unlikely of joints to take mum to, but Betty’s Burger Bar was bustling and appeared to be too good to pass up. We needed to see what all the hype and crowds was about. Grandma hasn’t eaten a burger and chips for years but with a Naked Betty on the menu (burger with no bun) everyone was catered for. Simple burgers done well aside from the added crunch provided by the sand still in the lettuce.

The rest of the afternoon we potter around the shops and enjoy the theatre of icecream from Nitrogenie. The lady was so passionate about the liquid nitrogen she did more than just make the girls an icecream but a whole science experiment on the behavior of the liquid nitrogen compared to water. Science lesson for the week, done!

The next day we visited the Ginger Factory in Yandina. I wasn’t sure what to expect but what a fabulous day. The highlight for us adults was the most clear, concise, fascinating and knowledgeable presentation and demonstration from the bee keeper all about bees 🐝 and what they do, make, collect and behavior. It was super, I just hope the girls took it in but when I get a moment I hope I can build a lesson around these important and talented little creatures.

The rest of the day was equally well done. The highlight for Georgia was the boat ride. An indoor attraction in which you boarded a small boat which moved along a narrow channel and as you floated along you followed the story of the ginger bread man as he runs away from 3 bakers. His journey takes him all over the world, with the bakers never far behind, but with the gingerbread man hiding or in disguise you are trying to spot him in each scene. The whole thing is done with marionette puppets to a musical arrangement that takes on the flavor of the country the Ginger Breadman is in. At first I thought gosh, this is going to be naf, but it really was well done and in the end we enjoyed it so much we went around a second time.

Other attractions was a tour and tasting of the Budrum ginger factory, the largest confectionary ginger exporter in the world. Who would have known! A steam train ride around the lovely tropical grounds of the factory and pottering around the shops in Ginger town. The food also supported the ginger and honey themes of the day but while the menu was well designed the execution was a little disappointing. All in all the Ginger Factory, in a little known small town of Yandina is punching well above it’s weight.

Coolum to be continued …………

# 20 – Brisbane, QLD

After the fabulous break / mini holiday in Byron it’s on to something completely different. The big smoke and tall buildings lume as we drive up the freeway, and Ken comments to me, “it looks like Manhattan”, I look sideways at him, giving the look of, ‘would you like to reconsider that?’ he pauses and looks back with a smile knowing the comparison is not quite on the mark. When Brisbane looks like Manhattan, you know you’ve been in the bush too long.

The drive to Bris-Vagas is busy and a little hectic. Gone are the empty roads of the outback I suspect this type of driving with be the norm now on the populated east coast. We have decided to put the van into storage for a few days while we stay in the center of Brisbane and take in the delights and sights of the city.

Ken has booked us into a self contained apartment on the 73rd floor of one of the tallest building in Brisbane and the view is spectacular. Looking across the Brisbane River, South Bank and the sprawling city beyond. What stikes me is the balance in ratio between green and built space. This is a hot (pun intended) topic in many capital cities and suburbs such as ours at home. No doubt the level or rainfall and sub tropical climate help but also maybe Brisbane has better regulation over new developments? Sounds like a homeschooling project to me!

Most of the day was consumed with logistics of travel, dropping of the van, getting unloaded at the accommodation and getting the car dropped off for some work it was having done while here in Brisbane. This didn’t leave much time for anything else and once the girls got to the room they were chuffed with a big bed, big bathroom, floor space to finally do some lego they bought, doors seemed to be a big hit, the view and TV!

On about the second night in the van the hard disk with all the movies and shows on it fell out of the cupboard and into a sink full of water and never recovered. Secretly I did a little fist pump as I was keen to do the trip with no TV. However if I am being very honest I have to confess the few surviving shows on my iPad have made the travel days a little easier.

While the rest of the family was content in the room I was itching to get amougst it, so once Lulu had gone down for a late sleep I found the nearest supermarket and went for a few supplies and the chance to get my bearings and a feel for the place. Wow, as I strode down the bustling  footpaths, with all the workers heading home or out for drinks after work I felt a buzz, a freedom, memories of days BK. Or was it just the excitement of being on my own for a bit? Either way it didn’t last long as Lulu awoke and back to the race was one to get what I needed and get back.

Day 2 – we headed to South Bank (the Arts, Library, Muesum, parks and restaurant hub) to explore. Hoping to find a boat cruise to do a tour on giving us a history and local knowledge of Brisbane and the Brisbane river which meanders through the city. This was a lovely and informative way to see the city and with an endless supply of delisious scones, jam and cream everyone was relaxed and content.

Following the cruise we explored SouthBank more, busy but delightful and enjoyed a delicious Italian lunch, with the girls discovering the joy of Gnocchi at it’s best. We spent the final few hours of daylight in the museum, where Ken left us to go and do his EOSphere meet up. But the day wasn’t over yet, without Ken to drag around and Lulu having another late sleep in the pram, us girls hit the shop for a bit of retail therapy. Both the girls needed a little zhuzhing up before a trip to the theater tomorrow night.

Baked Gnocchi, thumbs up!

By the time we dragged ourselves home we had nearly been out and mostly on our feet for 12 hours. Shattered but a great day!

Day 3 – Brisbane is the only city in Australia to still have a functioning town Hall. It’s a beautiful building and they run free tours of the building and clock tower. With a spectacular Father Henry Willis Organ and a recent $215 million refurbishment of the Hall and organ, it was a wonderful tour. Attached to the Town Hall is another museum, this one all about Brisbane, which again we enjoyed very much. Expo ‘88 seems to have been the beginning a massive boost and change in the way Brisbane presented itself to visitors and the world. They really have excelled in promoting their city and seem very proud of her history. We’ve throughly enjoyed learning about and experiencing Brisbane.

The rest of the day we spent getting lost in the city food and shops mostly, before a brief rest and out to see Aladdin the Disney musical that night. Not thinking Lulu would get through an evening performance we just booked for Ken and the girls, but when it came to it I just couldn’t bear missing out. Upon enquiry there happened to be one perfect seat directly behind them on the isle to boot so I could make an easy escape should I need to.

The girls loved the show, as we all did. The genie was super and see and hearing Georgia laugh louder and longer than anyone else in the thearter was a delight. Lulu and I made it through 3/4 of the show and saw all the best bits even if some of it was in a sound proof viewing box with some of the cast. The staff were so amazing and keen for me not to miss out, they ushered Lulu and I into the box so we could catch the amazing magic carpet scene before calling it a night.

The city has sparked a love of buses for Lulu, (it’s her new word), and she never lets one go by without everyone and anyone knowing about it. Thank goodness for all the buses about the city late at night as I tried to get one over tired little girl home. Just as the next wave of exhausted meltdown was about to being a bus would go by and I’d breath a sigh of relief and walk a little faster still.

Day 4 – Dreamworld! We had driven right past the Gold Coast and couldn’t resist the chance to visit one of these theme parks. Fortunately none of us are adrenaline junkies so we skipped all the crazy rides but had a wonderful day taking in the various shows and themed section of the park. ABC kids World little kiddy rides, Dreamworld Corroboree all about Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander heritage and culture, Tiger Island, Dreamworks experience (Ken even got to be on stage with Alex the Lion), Lego Store and WhiteWater world.

It was a cool day but it didn’t stop the girls getting in their bathers and making the most of it. When we hit the water park they just didn’t stop. Two solid hours of running, swimming, climbing the stairs to the water slides and dodging massive buckets of dumping water. Lulu slept through all this fun so I sat back put my feet up and performed my baby mattress duties with no complaints.

And that’s a wrap off Brisbane. What a city! The last thing to make note of is how friendly, tentative, warm and helpful we have found everyone. Even complete strangers in ladies toilets offering to help as Lulu screams the place down having awoken with an nasty nappy and realizing I have run out of nappies. Humanity is alive and well!