The drive in was late in the day so we were treated to the afternoon light as we passed Mt Conner. Although it was late and we were keen to just get to camp we needed to stop for fuel at Coward Springs. Turned out to be a good thing as the fuel attendant told Ken to observe the profile of Kata Tjuta (formerly the Olgas) and see if we recognised any figure. He told Ken what to look for but Ken kept it to himself to see if I could guess ……… Yep Homer Simpson.
It was now dark but I could make out some figures on the road up ahead. Was it people? It looked like lots of legs. As we came closer through the darkness we realised they were wild camels. Earlier in our trip we had listened to the audio book Tracks: One Woman’s Journey Across Australia by Robyn Davidson. A city slicker who moved to Alice to learn all there was about camels and then walked from Alice to the Indian Ocean. It was a fascinating account and here we were now with wild camels in the middle of Australia.
We finally arrived in Yulara at about 7.30pm and had a spot allocated in the overflow section. Yulara is super busy at the moment. It’s definitely peak season and with this being the last year that Uluru is open for walking up, people seem to want to get in before it’s too late. That is a whole other subject, but we find it hard to understand why people are so keen to do it, knowing that it is a sacred site for the Anangu Aboriginal people. They request people respect their wishes and ask people don’t walk it, still folks blatantly ignore the sign and carry on up the rock. Each to their own I guess.
It’s late but it was super exciting to find the Chapman and Durston families set up opposite each other and a spot for us saved. All the kids were really excited to see each other again. It’s a great mix of age 13, 11, 11, 10, 8, 8, 7, 3 and 2 and they play so well together.
Our first day we took a walk into the town centre with a detour via a lookout to see Uluru. Wow impressive even from this distance. We had a little wander around town then found our way to the Wintjiri Arts & Museum Centre for the free talk on astronomy. We then walked back to the van, Lulu was tired and cranky. While carrying and feeding her she fell asleep, ugh, she is getting sooo heavy! I eventually got back to camp to find everybody already there, having caught the bus. Doh!
That night Ken had booked us on the Field of Light tour. It was freezing but fabulous. The bus picks you up and takes you out to the field and then you have 30 mins to wander through the 7,000,000 colour changing light bulbs. A stunning memorable experience.
The next morning we schooled and did the chores before the girls and Ken did an Aboriginal art lesson with local painter Bessie. They had a great couple of hours learning about the symbols and the time to produce their own painting. They all came back having loved the experience. Meanwhile Lulu and I had enjoyed a very peaceful time on our own in the van.
That afternoon we headed out to Kata Tjuta. We did the Walpa Gorge Walk and it was amazing for three reasons. Walks can be pretty arduous as Lulu never wants to walk or go in the sling, and I have to carry her all the way but after having had a great nap earlier, she was a happy, chatty little thing and walked all the way there and back. Secondly we just missed the big tour groups and ended up having the gorge to ourselves and thirdly it was beautiful, with huge towering rock walls and an awesome energy. It felt like a powerful place.
Kata Tjuta – Facts
- 36 domes covering 35sq km.
- Highest dome (Mt Olga) 546m
- 1066m above sea level
- It’s nearly in the middle of Australia, 1270km to Adelaide and 1420 to Darwin.
After our walk we spotted some more wild camels before leaving the national park to find some firewood, fly the drone and find a sunset spot. Turn to the west and the setting sun was lighting up the sky and clouds with reds, oranges and pinks then whip your head around to the east and you’re treated to the changing colours of the rock of Kata Tjuta and the hues of soft blues, purples and yellow of the sky. Pretty magical. The red dirt here is just so so red I love it against the contrast of the green bushes and our white skin. Sunset was as we’ve come to expect them, stunning. We are just loving the NT.
That evening, once we’d gotten the kids to bed and settled we lit the fire pit and us parents shared an evening around the fire. We’re really loving the social connection around the fire pit and just the general sharing of information and experience with Jayme and Rory and Mel and Brett.
The next day was a freezing early start. We were heading out to Uluru to hire bikes and ride around the base. Having sent our bikes home while in Melbourne we were all excited to go for a ride, but not just any ride, what an awesome experience. We set off at about 8.30am, the sun was just starting to warm things up and people were already walking up the rock.
At certain points around the base there was signage telling of the significance of this site, or the Creation story. These stories are known as Tjukurpa. Some sites were sacred and you’re not allowed to take photos. The shady side of the rock was very cold, green and lush with tall trees, then as you come around to the sunny side the landscape changes to arid desert shrubs.
It was an absolutely wonderful morning. Uluru is an awe inspiring place. I’m not sure if it is the sheer size of it or maybe the power and energy of the rock is inescapable. Either way there is no doubt about its allure and majestic magnificence. It has definitely been more epic than I expected.
After our ride we hung out around the Cultural Centre for a bit before heading back to camp for a lazy lunch and afternoon. It’s been a pretty busy time here in Yulara so far and it was nice for the kids and us to have a bit of down time. Evenings around the fire are always a hit with the kids and adults.
There has been a great program of free talks and events running throughout Yulara and out at Uluru during the season. We’d heard that the ranger talk happening that morning at Uluru was being led by an Indigenous ranger. Thinking that may add more significance to the stories and experience we went back out to the rock with the Durstons for the 2 hour walk and talk. The kids love a tour, listening to the story being told and how to keep up the front with the guide.
That afternoon we went back into the National Park for our first Uluru sunset. It was with a couple of other families and was a fun social occasion. Truly spectacular. The red of the rock and the colour of the sky that wraps around it. Breathtaking. So much so, that one wasn’t enough. We just had to go back the next day, our last night, for another.
Our last day was a bit of a potter day, with preparations for the next few days travel along the Red Centre Way, more free talks in the town centre (Bush Tucker and Bush Yarns), and collecting the tyre we’d had repaired. The Chapman family had already moved on a couple of days ago but we’d be continuing our time and travels with the Durston family.
Epic, nourishing for the soul and energising is how I would describe our time here. Loving the travelling life.
