NT

Today we leave Darwin for a two-day drive to El Questro Station where we are going to enjoy a fabulous 5 days to celebrate Georgia’s birthday. With a few final errands to run in Darwin we eventually left Darwin just before lunch.

It was a pretty uneventful drive through to Katherine. We had hoped to get a little further down the road but with a late departure and the lure of some G’s to have a good enough internet connection to publish more blog posts we chose to pull up just outside of Katherine.

Munbullo Homestead Caravan Park was lovely and shady. A sweet little park and we met some lovely travellers. Pulling up early was great as it gave us the chance to do the schooling we never got done in the morning. Term 3 started today and we have been working hard to catch up on Maths and don’t want to see it go pear shaped on day one.

Home schooling has definitely been one of the biggest challenges of the trip. It’s been a real roller coaster for all of us I think and while we have a bit of rhythm now it has required great discipline to maintain any momentum we gather. However with that said, as we start to look ahead to the next stage of the girls’ education I think we are all feeling what a great experience this has been and how lucky we are.

Our intention of an early getaway evaporated as Ken and the fellow next door got into an in-depth conversation on the intricacies of vans, batteries, solar and car set-ups. It was an interesting exchange so we didn’t sweat it and it was another midday departure.

It was a beautiful drive. A few hours in and you hit Judbarra / Gregory National Park, Stokes Ranges, the Victoria River and boab tree country. All of a sudden you are surrounded by inspiring views and bewitching boab trees. Their curious and gnarled form is so intriguing. I would have loved to have stopped and photographed them all but we were really pushed for time.

Turns out time beat us. We had hoped to make the Zebra Rock Mine Gallery and Campground but arrived too late. Instead we camped on the roadside just near the gate to the mine. It was off the main road so was pretty quiet and with the moon not rising till late we were graced with another dazzling display of a Northern Territory night sky. It felt like a fitting way to spend our last night in the N.T. The next morning we had breakfast and made our way into the Zebra Rock Mine hoping to catch the morning tour. Unfortunately our late nights led into late mornings and even though we arrived at 10am thinking this would be a good morning tour time we had missed it by an hour.

Still the lady was super friendly and after a wander through the gallery the kids had a go at polishing their own piece of Zebra Rock. A unique little experience and a warm wonderful vibe. You could easily stay here for a day or two and enjoy the beautiful stone and hospitality. For us though it was onwards with excitement to our home state and the Western Australia border!!!!

[Photo of the kids polishing Zebra Rock]

After border checks it’s a short drive to Kununurra where we stocked up on food, fuel and had a fleeting rendezvous with a dear family friend Val. I received a message as we were driving into town saying she was here and around for a week, maybe we could catch up. Five minutes later we are standing out the front of Coles Kununurra hugging.

With plans made and a massive shop complete we were on our way over the Ord River Diversion Dam to El Questro Station. I have to confess I have done little research on what to expect at El Questro but with a sense of excitement in my belly I think we are in for something special.

The trip out of Kakadu wasn’t particularly scenic but we were basking in the glow of having such a great time it didn’t really matter. About 50k out of Darwin we did stop to help an Aboriginal family on the side of the road. With their car half off and half on the road it was obvious they needed help. We had the tools they needed but no idea what to do with them and they had the knowledge but not the tools, so it worked well.

It was a great education in bush mechanics for us and we were just pleased to get them back on the road. They’d been stuck there since about 11am so they were also in need of water and food. They spoke English well but it wasn’t their first language and it was great listening to them talk away in their own language. Finally we were all back on the road but it was now getting pretty late.

Being a day early we couldn’t get on our booked site so just pulled onto some grass for the night, unhitched and went straight into Darwin to the Mindil Beach night markets. What a fabulous vibe and night. We took some food for Georgie just in case we couldn’t find anything suitable, but it wasn’t needed as we discovered ‘sushi burgers’.

[Photo of Mindil Beach night markets]

“No way”, you say! And it gets better, you could get a crocodile sushi burger. Well, Georgia was in heaven. She’d had crocodile in Dubbo and loved it so she was mega thrilled. Turned out to be a total winner and not the last time we’d see Miss Sushi Burger lady.

[Photo of Georgia with her crocodile sushi burger]

We all enjoyed the market food, stalls, massage and magic tricks. It was a top little night out (and night off cooking). A great way to kick off our Darwin experience.

The following day was spent sorting out some car issues and eventually getting onto our site and set up. By then the day had almost gone but it wasn’t too late to visit another night market, this one in Palmerston. Again a great vibe and a lot of the same vendors, including sushi burger! The temperature is just so mild and pleasant it’s a lovely way to just spend the evening with music, food and a few treats for the kids. We all left relaxed and happy campers again.

We’d heard the story of Sweetheart when we did the bush tucker safari because it was Patsy’s (the Aboriginal guide’s) husband, Dave, that led the team to relocate Sweetheart. Unfortunately Sweetheart drowned in the capture after the tranquilliser affected his respiratory systems. It’s been an interesting perspective we’ve received on crocs here in the N.T. Turns out they do have a social structure and maybe a little more clever than we were led to believe in Queensland.

We wrapped up our outing today with a visit to the Wharf Precinct. Restaurants, playground, wave machine pool and lagoon. While it was warm and tempting to swim it was a little too late so after a play we made for home. With the promise to return the next day.

We were keen to visit the N.T. Art Gallery and Museum and it was a wonderful visit. Celebrating 50 years since the moon landing, they had some great activities on for the girls. But the main attractions were the Cyclone Tracy exhibition, the history of Darwin and the massive 5m croc called Sweetheart.

With Georgia’s birthday less than a week away now we are having some early celebrations with a trip to the cinema this morning and the afternoon spent at Waves. An added bonus was another visit to the Mindil markets on the way home. We caught the sunset this time, with about 200 other people, before seeking out yet another sushi burger, paw paw salad and pizza for Lulu and Charlotte. Darwin will be remembered for its night markets for sure.

Our last day we were without the car. With a little list of repairs we weren’t expecting it back but grateful to be getting some niggling issues sorted before we embark on the Gibb River Road. It was also a good day to catch up on washing and cooking.

The day did indeed get away from us, again. We still wanted to visit the Military Museum and learn about the bombing of Darwin during WWII, so the kids and I grabbed an Uber and had just enough time to wander through before they closed.

[Photo of the kids at the Darwin Military Museum]

235 people died, with 300 – 400 wounded in the first attack on the 19th of February 1942, but Darwin continued to be bombed for another 20 months. Those who were evacuated were unable to return to their homes until 1946 and when they did little was left. Darwin was a strategic base with the only harbour and aerodromes, military and civil, in northern Australia. I don’t remember learning anything about this growing up so felt it was important to come and get an understanding and for the girls to learn of it too.

It feels like we’ve only just scratched the surface of Darwin but unfortunately we need to keep moving. Another one to pop on the list for next time.

Thank you 🙏 Darwin.

The free ranger talks throughout Kakadu are just fantastic, and it’s an easier and more enjoyable way for us all to take in the information. A lovely walk out in nature, and on this fine morning we were looking at some rock art at Burrungkuy and hearing Dreaming stories of the Namarrgon – Lightning Man and his children.

He brought electrical power to the rock and his spirit resides here in the East Arnhem Land escarpment. Here he watches over the country and wakes up during the wet season. Darwin and Kakadu can receive more lightning strikes in one hour than Perth gets in a whole year.

Also at this site you can visit a shelter that was used by the Aboriginals as a dwelling during the wet seasons as recently as the 80s. Wonderful that people were still living a traditional life that recently here. Feeling privileged to have learnt so much of this wonderful culture this morning it was time to head north for our campsite at Ubirr – Merl Campground.

Throughout Kakadu there are a number of mining leases. As we drove through one of these today we realised we were no longer in national park so we stopped to collect firewood and some turkey bush. Turkey bush is not the botanical name but on our bush tucker safari we learnt it was great for creating a mozzie repellent smoke. You take some hot coals from the fire and set some turkey bush, old and flowering, on the coals and smoke the place up. It was effective and has a reasonably pleasant smell.

We stopped again in Jabiru for supplies and lunch in the van. Hitting the G’s (Telstra 4G’s) is always exciting and we used the chance to get Charlotte’s school application in. It did mean we were going to be arriving later than we had hoped but it was good to get the application away.

Arriving at Merl Campground we selected a lovely private campsite and settled in. The sunsets here are spectacular! The location up on a rocky outcrop giving an elevated position and view across the wetlands combined with the smoke haze from the burn offs made for a very dramatic red setting sun. Memorable for sure and is going to be right up there as one of the best sunsets on this adventure.

We are tantalisingly close to Arnhem Land here and Ken had heard of an art centre you could visit. You need a permit and as per the conditions are not allowed to stop anywhere in Arnhem Land other than the art centre. It was worth the trip and permit. The drive was spectacular, gave us the excuse to do the famous Cahills Crossing and the art stunning. A totally different style here. No dots but fine, fine lines.

Returning from Arnhem Land we took a moment to view the crocs at the crossing. There are a number that live here and are very active so it’s a well known croc spotting spot.

That afternoon we did another free ranger guided walk about the art sites at Ubirr which finishes up at the sunset spot. Lulu is becoming quite the climber and when she is feeling a little determined or cheeky there’s a few heart in mouth moments, either as I’m watching or when I realise she’s disappeared and I have no idea where she is only to discover her at the top of a rock pillar. I was so cross with her, but heck she looked so great I just had to get a quick picture before giving her a stern mummy was worried talk.

We had planned to stay another day but felt we had covered all we wanted to see and are starting to feel like we are running out of time. A day gained here is a day somewhere else just as amazing or more. With that in mind we decided to head to Darwin tomorrow. A little excited about this as we realised it is the only capital city in Australia we haven’t been to.

Thank you Kakadu and its traditional owners past and present for affording us such a wonderful visit on country. Gamuk. Ma baw baw (in language), meaning, thank you. It was good time, see you again.

We’d been hearing reports of another must-visit swimming hole, Maguk, just down the road. We didn’t have a lot of spare time but the lure of these remote swimming holes was too much. We jumped in our bathers and began the 1 km walk, firstly through dense rainforest then the terrain changes to rocky river bed. At one point crossing the creek on some well placed stepping stones.

This is a managed crocodile area, meaning there is a crocodile trap upstream and any unwanted crocs are relocated. Still the warning signs need to be in place warning that Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles can enter the area undetected at any time. Right there and then you think, no way am I going to swim if there’s a chance. However you continue the walk getting hotter and hotter as you approach the sound of a large waterfall and eventually through the clearing you see this magnificent large swimming hole. Teal green waters, various shades of outback red sheer cliffs on either side and a cascading waterfall at the far end.

Once you catch your breath, (from the beauty and the walk), you realise there’s about 40 people here swimming now, there’s been more this morning and the entire dry season so far and you start rationalising away the earlier held fears. The water was warmer than Gunlom and as I swam into the middle of the pool my body took in a deep inhalation of air and the surrounds followed by a long breath out. As you soak it all in you feel yourself and your body just relax and let go.

Then in the very next moment a thought of those pesky crocs comes into my mind and I’m briskly swimming back to the exit, trying to stay calm. ‘Just keep swimming, just keep swimming’. No matter, we didn’t have time for a long lavish afternoon of relaxation. Feeling refreshed we ready ourselves for the walk back.

We are on a schedule today as we are booked on a sunset cruise this evening on the Yellow Water wetlands in Cooinda. Cooinda is a hive of activity and a base for all visitors to Kakadu to maybe do a couple of tours and visit the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.

We have booked 3 nights here and hit the ground running. Arriving with just enough time to set up before making our way down to the wetlands. We jump on one of the 3 boats going out, (it’s a busy operation), and straight away you realise, these are the images of Kakadu you have seen all your life. Expansive wetlands teeming with bird life, crocs and water buffalo.

Our very knowledgeable and passionate captain and guide delivered us an amazing evening. Masses of whistling ducks, Australian darter, Azure kingfisher, Black-necked stork or Jabiru, Brolga, comb-crested jacana, egrets of all kinds, Magpie goose, Green Pygmy goose, a Nankeen night-heron and the impressive white-bellied sea eagle. Throw in the Blue-winged kookaburra and rare rainbow pitta I observed at Gunlom, it’s easy to see what all the bird watching hype is all about. It’s magnificent!

The cruise finishes with more crocs and a magical Kakadu sunset. I don’t know if it is the magic of Kakadu or the mass of burn offs going on at this time of year but the sunsets are spectacular. Some of the best so far. The wetlands have made an amazing recovery from the days when buffalo numbers and industry were out of control. It’s a good news story for the water lilies, lotus and ecosystems, but as we were to learn the next day the cane toad has had a devastating effect on the carnivore marsupials and reptiles of Kakadu.

Next we had booked a unique and hands on experience with Bush Tucker Safari. This is a small group tour with local Aboriginal woman, Patsy and Don. This is Patsy’s country and at approximately 60 years of age she has the knowledge, grace and cheekiness of an Aboriginal elder.

It was a fabulous afternoon collecting all the necessities from the bush to have a traditional meal cooked in a traditional paperbark oven. So we stopped and learnt about the what and the why and then gathered what we needed before continuing to the dinner spot, with a few stories thrown in along the way. Such an education, we ate the heart of one of the palms – good walking food, sweet and moist and green ants – lemony and half a handful (no more) and your headache and pain be gone.

Collected wood for the fire, turkey bush for smoking in smaller fires to keep the mozzies away, young palm frond for learning to make string, fresh green leaves to cook on, large sheets of paperbark for the oven, and lumps of termite mound for the fire; it burns like heat bead / hot rock. Earlier that day Patsy had hunted for Magpie Goose and as she and her husband managed the only buffalo farm in Kakadu it was goose and buffalo in the oven for dinner.

Arriving at the dinner spot it was hands on setting up, setting fires, making fire, plucking the geese, preparing sweet potato, and making damper. Once dinner was in the paperbark oven, Patsy taught us how to make string to make the baskets and dilly bags. What a long process, even for a seasoned professional like Patsy. It’s now easy to understand why the bags and baskets can cost up to $2000.00. A large bag could almost be a lifetime’s work.

Despite being eaten alive by the mozzies it was an amazing experience, accompanied by another amazing Kakadu sunset. Truly beautiful. The more we learn about the Aboriginal culture the more we come to admire it, and its people. And you can’t ignore the ignorance, brutality, lies and deception that our own people have bestowed upon them since we arrived. Hopefully it’s not too late to save the remaining culture, languages and people whose spirit is from this land and returns to this land. We could learn so much from them if we were willing to be quiet and listen.

Our last day in Cooinda we visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. A fabulous display, sharing of story and knowledge and account of the Indigenous peoples experience of Kakadu over the years. It feels wonderful in the way the elders have been so open about sharing the stories and knowledge but the sad truth is it has maybe been born out of the fear and realisation that there are not enough young people to carry it on.

However the white rangers here in the park do an amazing job of sharing with great passion and respect the teachings they have been passed on by the old people. You really come away with a sense of responsibility that we all need to ensure the culture and stories are not lost. That evening we took in another magic sunset at Nawurlandja lookout before getting all packed for an early departure the next day.

We have just spent two night as the stunning Gunlom campsite and wow! The Northern Territory just keeps kicking goals. Everyone says on the lap of Oz Tassie and the Kimberly’s are the highlights. With the Kimberly’s still to come I suppose we’ll have to wait and see but gee the N.T. is just smashing it right now.

We left Katherine this morning and drove straight up to Kakadu. With a quick stop at the first information centre we continued on to the turn off for Gunlom and let the tries down. An hour and a half of unsealed, dusty and corrugated roads (bringing back memories of Cape York) and we arrived at a busy but spacious and well set, (showers and toilets), camp.

Lulu was due a sleep and lunch for all and by then it was getting late but we were determined to head up the range to the top of the Gunlom falls and see this spectacular natural infinity pool. The track was graded difficult and with a toddler, it certainly was challenging in places, but oh so worth it.

We arrived on sunset. Too cold for me to swim but Ken and the girls braved it and the view and colours of the sunset were spectacular. A vast vista framed with dramatic red / orange granite and glassy pools of green water. The sounds of tumbling water, chatter of evening birds and the knowing that this is a special place to the Jawoyn aboriginal people, who belong to this country, makes it feel spiritual.

Bula the most important Jawoyn creation ancestor created this. They are happy to share it with us, but want us to know its an important place and we must do no wrong. If Bula is disturbed he could cause disaster. When Bula passed through he bought Bulong, the rainbow serpent and its believed he still resides in the plunge pool below. Kakadu was handed back the the aboriginal people and it feels like a privilege to be on there land.

Being conscious of the fading light and the tricky decent we made our way down before the colours of sunset faded. The girls did great and the head torches came in as it was indeed dark by the time we got over the scrambling section and on to the path. The head torches also provided the girls with much entertainment as they were able to spot all the reflective eyes of the little spider all over the grass and bush. Less afraid and more fascinated was the feeling which was great as Charlotte is easily spooked by our 8 legged friends.

The next morning we had decided to postpone school in order to get an earlish start up the track and have more time enjoying the upper pools of Gunlom. Lulu and the girls love the scrambling but its always easier when Lulu is fresh and happy. We had a wonderful morning and the girls played with a number of the kids all getting totally engaged in a number of creative games.

Ken enjoyed a brief swim but capturing as much of the magic on his camera kept him busy. A brief snack with the best views, a final swim and play on the massive pool noodle nature provided, in the form of a tree trunk and we’d had the most wonderful morning. We descended for lunch and a rest before an evening visit to the plunge pool at the bottom of the water fall.

No crocs to worry about up top but there are a couple of local freshies, (freshwater cros) here in the plunge pool. The girls were hesitant but after seeing the shallow sandy clear waters and all the other swimmers they were soon frolicking and having a total blast with a couple of kids. In the end everyone had left. With just the six kids laughing and playing and us parents peacefully sitting watching them play, create and ooze fun and joy. As if that wasn’t magic enough the backdrop behind them was epic! Magic memories right there.

Our visit at Gunlom was completed with an early morning walk with the ranger. Wanting to get on the road to visit Maguk Falls a little up the road we stayed with the group for the plunge pool part then headed back to camp to finish pack up and get on the road.

A brilliant adventure thank you to the Jawoyn for sharing and caring for this country.

It’s fair to say that most of the time Ken and I have been pretty average at researching the areas we are travelling through. However, it can’t be said for Barrow Creek. Not high on the must-see list but for Ken who has had a morbid fascination with the Falconio murder, Barrow Creek was a must stop.

It was the last stop Joanne and Peter made before being flagged down, and just 12 km up the road where Peter disappeared / was murdered and Joanne escaped, hiding in the dark in bushes. Following the ordeal Joanne was taken back to Barrow Creek and stayed there until police arrived and the investigation warranted she could leave the scene.

We’d left Alice in the morning with the only plans being to stop at Barrow Creek and get as far up the road as we can. We had the sense that there wasn’t much to see on this road but after travelling it and studying WikiCamps while Ken drove, I realized how wrong we were. It was a shame but as with much of life you have to make choices and it not that they are right or wrong, they just are. We were feeling pressured for time and made the decision to make a leap up the country.

As it turned out we got to Barrow Creek as the sun was setting so it was absolutely time to pull up for the day. After a look around the Hotel and a look through the display and information on the whole business we drive a few kilometers up the road to a great little free camp- Matt’s Quarry. Tucked away a bit away from the road, nestle in with the spinifex grasses and with impressive views of red cliffs towering over our campsite. With the setting sun casting its warm glow upon them, they were lite up like a beacon.

Friday night had rolled around again. Burgers and movie safely tucked up in the van were enjoyed by all and it was a peaceful and quiets night rest. 

A long travel day today. Again with no destination in mind just getting as many kilometres under our belts as we can. There were two stops we just couldn’t drive past though.

Firstly, Wycliffe Well – The UFO Capital of Australia. Who could go past such a quirky stop and we needed fuel. So it seems this spot is a bit of a hot spot for UFO sightings. It’s not surprising really, of an evening there is nothing else to do but stare up at the gorgeous night sky. We’ve certainly spent a lot of nights staring up at the stars since being in the NT and we have to confess to seeing some interesting and unexplained moving lights in the sky.

Our second stop was for lunch just up the road at the unique and beautiful Devils Marbles. The photos really tell the story I guess, big rocks that looks likes marbles.

As the sun started to dip in the sky and near the horizon I got busy with WikiCamps to find us a spot to pull up. We alway try and find something a bit off the road to limit the noise during the night from road trains. Gravel pit usually don’t make a great or scenic camp but this one had a 4 star rating. I was curious!

Turns out to be worth each one of those stars. A road leading to a large gravel pit set way back from the road. The pit itself was interesting and would have done but there were campsites along the road in. We selected one on a little rise that gave us a small view across the bush, complete with a campfire and surround by these flat green creeping bushes you could even call it pretty. A perfect spot for a good nights kip.

Our third long travel day in a row would eventually deliver us to Katherine. Although we did skip the ‘must stop’ Mataranka which I have regretted since. Fallen victim to our lack of research we learned of this gem after we’d reach Katherine and while I tried to find ways to get us back there it wasn’t to be. That’s one for the ‘next time’ list.

It was a long days drive with no stops of any significance other than the puncture and tyre change required 30 minutes out of Kathrine. We’ve been without any tyre issues the entire trip but have had three in the last month. Still its all part of the adventure and we are thankful for the fabulous bit of kit – Safety Dave tyre monitoring system, that alerts us as soon as the pressure suddenly decreases and we’ve been able to change/repair the tyre before any significant damage is done. 

We pulled into Katherine Holiday Park just before the park closed for the night. It is a lovely park on or next to a nature reserve about 7km out of town.

Again we seemed to have a fair amount of chores and organising to do here, leaving little time for sightseeing. We had a pile of mail and parcels to collect, the usual shopping and restocking, tyre repairs, research and bookings to make for our time in Kakadu and school/project work to complete.

Two of our flat tyres have been to do with the valves now, (possibly all the airing up and down taking its toll), so Ken asked the guys to replace all the valves, rotate the tyres and balance the wheels too. The other thing Ken was busy with was booking and planning our time in Kakadu. With campsites, tours and permits to buy and book, he needed to research, plan and schedule our next week’s itinerary.

One of Charlotte’s school projects for this term was to plan, document, budget, cook, serve and clean up a 3 course meal for the family. She’d decided on a Mexican theme, done all the planning and documenting so we just needed the time and supermarket to complete the project. Our first shopping trip ended up being all about the fiesta dinner party and she was going to need all the space in the fridge for her gastro extravaganza.

Ken hung some party lights, put on Mexican music and we were treated to corn chip, chorizo and guacamole bites for entree, nachos for mains, and homemade ice cream sandwiches for dessert! So delicious, she’s a great cook and getting better at cleaning up after herself. She had fun and it felt like a real treat to have a night off cooking. It was a stroke of genius setting that assignment, one of my finer homeschooling moments.

We’d taken a big jump up the country and the climate certainly reflected that. The beanie, scarf and woollens have been put away, t-shirts, shorts and bathers are in! Swimming now is firmly on the cards. The park has a huge pool and we visited Katherine Hot Springs.

The springs were lovely, not too hot and not too crowded. There had been some reports of kids coming down and pinching phones and money while you swim and right enough, a few suspicious types turned up but they were watched by all like hawks and eventually the stares moved them on. The water was so clear and it was fun scrambling over a small waterfall to travel along a narrow little creek to the lower pools.

Lulu just loves the water, floating and kicking with delight. Georgia is an absolute fish, under the water more than she is above it and Charlotte loves it too but has recently been having trouble with pain in her ears when she goes underwater. With a lot of warm weather and swimming ahead of us I booked a visit to the doctor to have it checked out.

Unfortunately we ran out of time for a visit to Katherine Gorge which was disappointing, just another one for that ever growing ‘next time’ list. We are excited about our next adventure, Kakadu here we come.

It was school holidays and the show was on so finding accommodation was always going to be tricky. I rang every park and camp in Alice and the only one we could get into was the overflow of the Transport Museum. Turned out to be perfect as it was also the location the Chapman family had arrived at. They had met and travelled a couple of days with another family so we all set up in a circle around the fire pit. Three vans, nine kids and more to come in a few days.

We had four days here in Alice and as we drove out heading for Katherine we realised we’d done nothing and seen nothing in Alice Springs. However it felt like we’d been flat out like a lizard drinking, and that is the reality of life on the road. It’s not all tours, relaxing, fun and frolicking.

The Red Centre had lived up to its name and the van was filthy. I’d given up trying to keep on top of the red dust that was everywhere and in everything, but it could not be ignored any longer. The van needed a deep clean and the clothes a good soak and scrub in Nappy San, we were all starting to look like Oompa Loompas.

While I was busy cleaning, washing and restocking the freezer with meals Ken was sorting out car and van maintenance. Some of the rough road had broken bits, shook loose others and general wear and tear needed sorting before continuing on to more remote areas. Of course there was the usual school, child wrangling and lots of chit chat with the neighbours.

Our one awesome experience was on the night we arrived, the 1st of July, Northern Territory Day. It’s the one day of the year that fireworks are legal for just that day till midnight. The boys had ducked off to pick up some fireworks and planned to get amongst it. The plans to set them off in the campground came to a halt when the owners put a stop to it. After that we jumped in the cars and made our way into town for the official fireworks display. We arrived just in the nick of time and the younger kids delighted in the display.

Still having a car full of fireworks, the other families searched for a car park to set them off in, while we decided to head home. The night had had enough of a bang for us. We were talking with the other families on the UHF (along with the rest of Alice) and the air was cloudy and thick with cordite. Fireworks were going off left, right and centre. It certainly felt festive with a touch of crazy, just the way we like it really!

The NT certainly has the feel of another world about it. You just have to be here to soak it up. So as the current tourism advertising campaign says. C.U. in the N.T. Only in the Territory.

We backtracked a little to take the turn to Kings Canyon so today was a travel day and we’d be doing the 4 hour 6 km walk tomorrow. Both families had spotted this Morris Pass Lookout as a potential campsite to base ourselves at. What a winner. Set on top a ridge you have stunning panoramic views of the plains below and the ranges that are home to Kings Canyon.

We pulled the vans up next to each other and the kids disappeared down the ridge to explore. Finding themselves a cave to play in we hardly saw them the entire time we were at this campsite. It was a bit steep for Lulu to get up and down so we built a little bird’s nest from the rocks and paved the access way with stones.

Friday night had rolled around again. So it was burgers and movie night for the kids and quality adult time around the campfire with Brett and Mel. Good time, great fire, magical night skies and early to bed with a big walk the next day.

A must do epic walk, it was something we really didn’t want to miss but I have to say I was worried about how we were going to manage with Lulu. Back in Yulara I’d bought a 5 metre length of fabric and I’m hoping to make a sling for Lulu, she won’t go in the more structured sling we’ve carried around the country. Armed with snacks and sweets we set off at daybreak.

Lulu was a total star climbing up the steep rocky staircase that takes you up to the rim of gorge. Between the soft early morning light, the happy and energetic kids and stunning rock colours and formation it was a wonderful start. The wonder just continued throughout the whole walk. The big kids ran, leaped and chatted their way about. Not a single whinge, whine or complaint from any of them and Lulu was pretty awesome too.

She happily went in the sling (which she named painty) but I let her out whenever she wanted. Ken thought I was a little crazy letting her go in and out, in and out, but with a long way to go and the hope of using it for future walks through the Kimberley I didn’t want her to develop an aversion to it. On the upside, I was becoming very proficient at tying her on and getting her off without any assistance.

The whole walk was absolutely amazing! Everywhere you looked views, awe and wonder. Magnificent, ancient and unique rock formations, all set in the outback colour palette. Bright blue sky, deep red rocks. After our lunch stop at the Garden of Eden we passed the halfway point and powered on. Lulu was an absolute star and did the second half of the walk in the sling. This was so great as I was able to get into an enjoyable walking pace and rhythm and enjoy the views as well.

We were super proud of our girls and all enjoyed a well earned icy pole and rest in the afternoon. What a great adventure and so thrilled to have shared it with the Durstons.

Ken and I were on a schedule as we have the car booked in to have its windscreen replaced and some auto electric repairs in three days’ time in Alice Springs. So we are off for a very quick trip through the West MacDonnell Ranges.

We selected Redbank Gorge for an overnight stay. The journey there was a bit of fun. It’s been great staying in convoy with the Durstons and chatting on the UHF, and has turned out to be pretty helpful too. Today it was Ken’s turn to lend some assistance to Brett. The roads were pretty rough and a fuel filter had shaken loose from the Chevy.

Other points of interest for the day were the roadside Brumbies, the stunning cliffs of the range and a brief stop at Tylers Pass Lookout. The lookout offered stunning 360 degree views including Gosse Bluff the meteorite site. It will be memorable for Charlotte as the spot where a stack of large rocks fell on her head.

There was a memorial / triangulation point stack of rocks and it looked like a metal bar ran through the middle of it. However when Charlotte got a little too close and gave the pole a wiggle the 3 or 4 rocks on top came down on her head. Other than the shock she was ok with a sore head for a couple of days.

From the lookout we made our way to the campsite which was full when we arrived. What to do? As we wandered around, looking for a camp this great couple offered to move their car (as they had not set up camp yet) and take a smaller site near us. It was so kind and decent of them. In the end we shared sunset with them and they came and joined us around the campfire at night. It was a great evening, he was a doctor and she an outback nurse and midwife so I was fascinated to hear their stories and the reality of health care and birth for Indigenous women.

In the morning we had planned to walk Redbank Gorge before heading back to Alice. To be perfectly honest we probably weren’t really feeling up to it and in the end we were let off when one of the kids had been unwell overnight. So after nearly a month of travelling together we farewell the Durstons. It has been such an enriching time that we are very grateful to have shared with them. It would have been very sad but we were consoled that it was just for a few nights, we’d catch up again in Alice.

The drive in was late in the day so we were treated to the afternoon light as we passed Mt Conner. Although it was late and we were keen to just get to camp we needed to stop for fuel at Coward Springs. Turned out to be a good thing as the fuel attendant told Ken to observe the profile of Kata Tjuta (formerly the Olgas) and see if we recognised any figure. He told Ken what to look for but Ken kept it to himself to see if I could guess ……… Yep Homer Simpson.

It was now dark but I could make out some figures on the road up ahead. Was it people? It looked like lots of legs. As we came closer through the darkness we realised they were wild camels. Earlier in our trip we had listened to the audio book Tracks: One Woman’s Journey Across Australia by Robyn Davidson. A city slicker who moved to Alice to learn all there was about camels and then walked from Alice to the Indian Ocean. It was a fascinating account and here we were now with wild camels in the middle of Australia.

We finally arrived in Yulara at about 7.30pm and had a spot allocated in the overflow section. Yulara is super busy at the moment. It’s definitely peak season and with this being the last year that Uluru is open for walking up, people seem to want to get in before it’s too late. That is a whole other subject, but we find it hard to understand why people are so keen to do it, knowing that it is a sacred site for the Anangu Aboriginal people. They request people respect their wishes and ask people don’t walk it, still folks blatantly ignore the sign and carry on up the rock. Each to their own I guess.

It’s late but it was super exciting to find the Chapman and Durston families set up opposite each other and a spot for us saved. All the kids were really excited to see each other again. It’s a great mix of age 13, 11, 11, 10, 8, 8, 7, 3 and 2 and they play so well together.

Our first day we took a walk into the town centre with a detour via a lookout to see Uluru. Wow impressive even from this distance. We had a little wander around town then found our way to the Wintjiri Arts & Museum Centre for the free talk on astronomy. We then walked back to the van, Lulu was tired and cranky. While carrying and feeding her she fell asleep, ugh, she is getting sooo heavy! I eventually got back to camp to find everybody already there, having caught the bus. Doh!

That night Ken had booked us on the Field of Light tour. It was freezing but fabulous. The bus picks you up and takes you out to the field and then you have 30 mins to wander through the 7,000,000 colour changing light bulbs. A stunning memorable experience.

The next morning we schooled and did the chores before the girls and Ken did an Aboriginal art lesson with local painter Bessie. They had a great couple of hours learning about the symbols and the time to produce their own painting. They all came back having loved the experience. Meanwhile Lulu and I had enjoyed a very peaceful time on our own in the van.

That afternoon we headed out to Kata Tjuta. We did the Walpa Gorge Walk and it was amazing for three reasons. Walks can be pretty arduous as Lulu never wants to walk or go in the sling, and I have to carry her all the way but after having had a great nap earlier, she was a happy, chatty little thing and walked all the way there and back. Secondly we just missed the big tour groups and ended up having the gorge to ourselves and thirdly it was beautiful, with huge towering rock walls and an awesome energy. It felt like a powerful place.

Kata Tjuta – Facts

• 36 domes covering 35sq km.
• Highest dome (Mt Olga) 546m
• 1066m above sea level
• It’s nearly in the middle of Australia, 1270km to Adelaide and 1420 to Darwin.

After our walk we spotted some more wild camels before leaving the national park to find some firewood, fly the drone and find a sunset spot. Turn to the west and the setting sun was lighting up the sky and clouds with reds, oranges and pinks then whip your head around to the east and you’re treated to the changing colours of the rock of Kata Tjuta and the hues of soft blues, purples and yellow of the sky. Pretty magical. The red dirt here is just so so red I love it against the contrast of the green bushes and our white skin. Sunset was as we’ve come to expect them, stunning. We are just loving the NT.

That evening, once we’d gotten the kids to bed and settled we lit the fire pit and us parents shared an evening around the fire. We’re really loving the social connection around the fire pit and just the general sharing of information and experience with Jayme and Rory and Mel and Brett.

The next day was a freezing early start. We were heading out to Uluru to hire bikes and ride around the base. Having sent our bikes home while in Melbourne we were all excited to go for a ride, but not just any ride, what an awesome experience. We set off at about 8.30am, the sun was just starting to warm things up and people were already walking up the rock.

At certain points around the base there was signage telling of the significance of this site, or the Creation story. These stories are known as Tjukurpa. Some sites were sacred and you’re not allowed to take photos. The shady side of the rock was very cold, green and lush with tall trees, then as you come around to the sunny side the landscape changes to arid desert shrubs.

It was an absolutely wonderful morning. Uluru is an awe inspiring place. I’m not sure if it is the sheer size of it or maybe the power and energy of the rock is inescapable. Either way there is no doubt about its allure and majestic magnificence. It has definitely been more epic than I expected.

After our ride we hung out around the Cultural Centre for a bit before heading back to camp for a lazy lunch and afternoon. It’s been a pretty busy time here in Yulara so far and it was nice for the kids and us to have a bit of down time. Evenings around the fire are always a hit with the kids and adults.

There has been a great program of free talks and events running throughout Yulara and out at Uluru during the season. We’d heard that the ranger talk happening that morning at Uluru was being led by an Indigenous ranger. Thinking that may add more significance to the stories and experience we went back out to the rock with the Durstons for the 2 hour walk and talk. The kids love a tour, listening to the story being told and how to keep up the front with the guide.

That afternoon we went back into the National Park for our first Uluru sunset. It was with a couple of other families and was a fun social occasion. Truly spectacular. The red of the rock and the colour of the sky that wraps around it. Breathtaking. So much so, that one wasn’t enough. We just had to go back the next day, our last night, for another.

Our last day was a bit of a potter day, with preparations for the next few days travel along the Red Centre Way, more free talks in the town centre (Bush Tucker and Bush Yarns), and collecting the tyre we’d had repaired. The Chapman family had already moved on a couple of days ago but we’d be continuing our time and travels with the Durston family.

Epic, nourishing for the soul and energising is how I would describe our time here. Loving the travelling life.

We’d been told this is the worst road in the NT. But we were pleasantly surprised by signs of a $5 million upgrade. There were a few patches of bitumen and the grader had recently been through so it really wasn’t too bad.

We were conscious that with road conditions it was going to be a long day but we all wanted to make a brief stop at Ewaninga Rock Carvings. This is a very powerful and important men’s place, in language called Napwerte. Petroglyphs or rock carvings are potent symbols of the laws and Creation Dreaming for the Arrernte people. Arrernte elders believe the meaning of the petroglyphs are too sacred and dangerous to be revealed to people not initiated in Aboriginal Law so we have little information but feel privileged to be able to come and look. It’s a short walk through beautiful red desert country and the colours are amazing.

The remainder of the day is through stunning country on rough, corrugated, dusty roads. We stay in pretty close contact with the Durstons but their Chevy rig outpowers us and they often creep ahead out of range of our UHF. The kids in each car have been enjoying chatting to each other and doing quizzes as we travel. We make a couple of other stops for firewood and drone flying before we reach the jump up that takes us through some dunes before reaching the Chambers Pillar campsite for our overnight stay.

I was driving at this point as Ken had been flying the drone so without much thought just carried on. The jump up was pretty cool, steep but ok, got the adrenaline running and the views at the top amazing. The road takes you along the top of this jump up for a bit before descending the other side. Still driving and not quite realising what lay ahead, we were in the descent before I knew it and it was too late to swap driver now. Holy heck the footage and photos don’t do it justice. Rocky and very steep but with Ken talking me through we got there. Towing 3.5 tonnes you can feel it pushing you down the hill so keeping control of the weight and picking that right line around the bend was nervy but probably because of my lack of experience. Whooo that was a bit of buzz, once at the bottom.

It was getting late in the day now and the afternoon glow was just lighting up the colour of the rock and landscape. We had a short dune section to go which I was thankful to have the Durstons out in front because you couldn’t see over them and just hoped no one was coming the other way. However at this late stage of the day most folk have already made camp and are settling in for night so it was unlikely.

Finally we arrive and eventually get on the last 2 sites. There is time for a quick set up and some of the crew to go for the walk to climb Chambers Pillar. Sunset was amazing, the colours on the pillar and rock stunning but it’s the subtle, ever-changing, hues of the sky that always makes me inhale deeply and drink in the beauty. It’s easy to focus on the setting sun in a sunset but if you do a 180, you’re treated to the gorgeous graduation of blues to purples to pink to orange to yellow to green and back to blue, love it!

It’s Friday night, so burgers and movie night for the kids and us parents get a double dinner date night around the fire. Good fun for all. With plans to get up for sunrise and having had a long day behind the wheel we retire early and brace for another freezing night.

Sunrise is indeed stunning and it’s not long before the kids are up and poking around the fire to get it going again. Usually Saturday morning is pancake morning and they are hoping to cook them on the plate over the fire. We need to get on the road but just love the kids having these memorable experiences and with friends too so say do it, but get quick about it.

The drive out is exciting following the same road through the dunes and that jump up again. Wow it really was steep and you hold your breath till you reach the top, good fun though. We then carry on back to Maryvale Station where we stop for fuel. Just outside of Maryvale we get a puncture. Our first for the trip. Turns out to be the valve rather than an actual puncture but it will be our first tyre change. Thankfully Brett is on hand so he and Ken sort it and I get to keep my hands clean again.

Fortunately there is a bit of a shortcut so we don’t have to go all the way back to Alice. The road is pretty good, red, sandy in places, corrugated in others. We eventually cross the railway line that connects the north of Australia to the south and not long after that hit the bitumen. We stop to air up the tyres, grab snacks and lunch for in the car and it’s bitumen all the way to Uluru.