We’d been hearing reports of another must-visit swimming hole, Maguk, just down the road. We didn’t have a lot of spare time but the lure of these remote swimming holes was too much. We jumped in our bathers and began the 1 km walk, firstly through dense rainforest then the terrain changes to rocky river bed. At one point crossing the creek on some well placed stepping stones.
This is a managed crocodile area, meaning there is a crocodile trap upstream and any unwanted crocs are relocated. Still the warning signs need to be in place warning that Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles can enter the area undetected at any time. Right there and then you think, no way am I going to swim if there’s a chance. However you continue the walk getting hotter and hotter as you approach the sound of a large waterfall and eventually through the clearing you see this magnificent large swimming hole. Teal green waters, various shades of outback red sheer cliffs on either side and a cascading waterfall at the far end.
Once you catch your breath, (from the beauty and the walk), you realise there’s about 40 people here swimming now, there’s been more this morning and the entire dry season so far and you start rationalising away the earlier held fears. The water was warmer than Gunlom and as I swam into the middle of the pool my body took in a deep inhalation of air and the surrounds followed by a long breath out. As you soak it all in you feel yourself and your body just relax and let go.
Then in the very next moment a thought of those pesky crocs comes into my mind and I’m briskly swimming back to the exit, trying to stay calm. ‘Just keep swimming, just keep swimming’. No matter, we didn’t have time for a long lavish afternoon of relaxation. Feeling refreshed we ready ourselves for the walk back.
We are on a schedule today as we are booked on a sunset cruise this evening on the Yellow Water wetlands in Cooinda. Cooinda is a hive of activity and a base for all visitors to Kakadu to maybe do a couple of tours and visit the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.
We have booked 3 nights here and hit the ground running. Arriving with just enough time to set up before making our way down to the wetlands. We jump on one of the 3 boats going out, (it’s a busy operation), and straight away you realise, these are the images of Kakadu you have seen all your life. Expansive wetlands teeming with bird life, crocs and water buffalo.
Our very knowledgeable and passionate captain and guide delivered us an amazing evening. Masses of whistling ducks, Australian darter, Azure kingfisher, Black-necked stork or Jabiru, Brolga, comb-crested jacana, egrets of all kinds, Magpie goose, Green Pygmy goose, a Nankeen night-heron and the impressive white-bellied sea eagle. Throw in the Blue-winged kookaburra and rare rainbow pitta I observed at Gunlom, it’s easy to see what all the bird watching hype is all about. It’s magnificent!
The cruise finishes with more crocs and a magical Kakadu sunset. I don’t know if it is the magic of Kakadu or the mass of burn offs going on at this time of year but the sunsets are spectacular. Some of the best so far. The wetlands have made an amazing recovery from the days when buffalo numbers and industry were out of control. It’s a good news story for the water lilies, lotus and ecosystems, but as we were to learn the next day the cane toad has had a devastating effect on the carnivore marsupials and reptiles of Kakadu.
Next we had booked a unique and hands on experience with Bush Tucker Safari. This is a small group tour with local Aboriginal woman, Patsy and Don. This is Patsy’s country and at approximately 60 years of age she has the knowledge, grace and cheekiness of an Aboriginal elder.
It was a fabulous afternoon collecting all the necessities from the bush to have a traditional meal cooked in a traditional paperbark oven. So we stopped and learnt about the what and the why and then gathered what we needed before continuing to the dinner spot, with a few stories thrown in along the way. Such an education, we ate the heart of one of the palms – good walking food, sweet and moist and green ants – lemony and half a handful (no more) and your headache and pain be gone.
Collected wood for the fire, turkey bush for smoking in smaller fires to keep the mozzies away, young palm frond for learning to make string, fresh green leaves to cook on, large sheets of paperbark for the oven, and lumps of termite mound for the fire; it burns like heat bead / hot rock. Earlier that day Patsy had hunted for Magpie Goose and as she and her husband managed the only buffalo farm in Kakadu it was goose and buffalo in the oven for dinner.
Arriving at the dinner spot it was hands on setting up, setting fires, making fire, plucking the geese, preparing sweet potato, and making damper. Once dinner was in the paperbark oven, Patsy taught us how to make string to make the baskets and dilly bags. What a long process, even for a seasoned professional like Patsy. It’s now easy to understand why the bags and baskets can cost up to $2000.00. A large bag could almost be a lifetime’s work.
Despite being eaten alive by the mozzies it was an amazing experience, accompanied by another amazing Kakadu sunset. Truly beautiful. The more we learn about the Aboriginal culture the more we come to admire it, and its people. And you can’t ignore the ignorance, brutality, lies and deception that our own people have bestowed upon them since we arrived. Hopefully it’s not too late to save the remaining culture, languages and people whose spirit is from this land and returns to this land. We could learn so much from them if we were willing to be quiet and listen.
Our last day in Cooinda we visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. A fabulous display, sharing of story and knowledge and account of the Indigenous peoples experience of Kakadu over the years. It feels wonderful in the way the elders have been so open about sharing the stories and knowledge but the sad truth is it has maybe been born out of the fear and realisation that there are not enough young people to carry it on.
However the white rangers here in the park do an amazing job of sharing with great passion and respect the teachings they have been passed on by the old people. You really come away with a sense of responsibility that we all need to ensure the culture and stories are not lost. That evening we took in another magic sunset at Nawurlandja lookout before getting all packed for an early departure the next day.
