The free ranger talks throughout Kakadu are just fantastic, and it’s an easier and more enjoyable way for us all to take in the information. A lovely walk out in nature, and on this fine morning we were looking at some rock art at Burrungkuy and hearing Dreaming stories of the Namarrgon – Lightning Man and his children.
He brought electrical power to the rock and his spirit resides here in the East Arnhem Land escarpment. Here he watches over the country and wakes up during the wet season. Darwin and Kakadu can receive more lightning strikes in one hour than Perth gets in a whole year.
Also at this site you can visit a shelter that was used by the Aboriginals as a dwelling during the wet seasons as recently as the 80s. Wonderful that people were still living a traditional life that recently here. Feeling privileged to have learnt so much of this wonderful culture this morning it was time to head north for our campsite at Ubirr – Merl Campground.
Throughout Kakadu there are a number of mining leases. As we drove through one of these today we realised we were no longer in national park so we stopped to collect firewood and some turkey bush. Turkey bush is not the botanical name but on our bush tucker safari we learnt it was great for creating a mozzie repellent smoke. You take some hot coals from the fire and set some turkey bush, old and flowering, on the coals and smoke the place up. It was effective and has a reasonably pleasant smell.
We stopped again in Jabiru for supplies and lunch in the van. Hitting the G’s (Telstra 4G’s) is always exciting and we used the chance to get Charlotte’s school application in. It did mean we were going to be arriving later than we had hoped but it was good to get the application away.
Arriving at Merl Campground we selected a lovely private campsite and settled in. The sunsets here are spectacular! The location up on a rocky outcrop giving an elevated position and view across the wetlands combined with the smoke haze from the burn offs made for a very dramatic red setting sun. Memorable for sure and is going to be right up there as one of the best sunsets on this adventure.
We are tantalisingly close to Arnhem Land here and Ken had heard of an art centre you could visit. You need a permit and as per the conditions are not allowed to stop anywhere in Arnhem Land other than the art centre. It was worth the trip and permit. The drive was spectacular, gave us the excuse to do the famous Cahills Crossing and the art stunning. A totally different style here. No dots but fine, fine lines.
Returning from Arnhem Land we took a moment to view the crocs at the crossing. There are a number that live here and are very active so it’s a well known croc spotting spot.
That afternoon we did another free ranger guided walk about the art sites at Ubirr which finishes up at the sunset spot. Lulu is becoming quite the climber and when she is feeling a little determined or cheeky there’s a few heart in mouth moments, either as I’m watching or when I realise she’s disappeared and I have no idea where she is only to discover her at the top of a rock pillar. I was so cross with her, but heck she looked so great I just had to get a quick picture before giving her a stern mummy was worried talk.
We had planned to stay another day but felt we had covered all we wanted to see and are starting to feel like we are running out of time. A day gained here is a day somewhere else just as amazing or more. With that in mind we decided to head to Darwin tomorrow. A little excited about this as we realised it is the only capital city in Australia we haven’t been to.
Thank you Kakadu and its traditional owners past and present for affording us such a wonderful visit on country. Gamuk. Ma baw baw (in language), meaning, thank you. It was good time, see you again.