The drive in starts to build the excitement for what we are to expect. Stunning scenery and a couple of long but shallow river crossings and you arrive at the station. We found our site (nice and tight, more spacious if you choose unpowered) and got set up.
Music starts at 5.30 pm so we walked up to reception, the wee shop and bar to check out the vibe. An amazing setting as you sit out in the cool of evening surrounded by boab trees, bougainvillea, festoon lights, music, the colours of a Kimberley sunset and a happy vibe in the air. It feels like a holiday.
The next morning we get right to it with an early morning start to Zebedee Springs. A hot spring that is only open for the morning, 7 a.m. – 12 p.m. We arrive right on seven hoping to miss the crowds and tour buses but it seems everyone had the same idea. Still there was actually enough room to feel not overcrowded and all friendly nice travelling folk anyway.
The water temp is perfectly warm but not too hot and there are many little pools as the water cascades down the rocky gorge over small climbable waterfalls. The light is filtered through the palms and trees above and the water colour crystal clear. We had the most amazing time here climbing up falls, wallowing in little pools and getting massaged by water rushing down the waterfalls.
The girls met some friends and scrambled from pool to pool. Lulu was cautious at first but eventually she too was scrambling and just loving the independence. Most pools she could reach the bottom and stand in. Hours passed but eventually it was time to think of getting home and breakfast.
This is where the day took a turn for the worse. We were drying off having a few boiled eggs and then Georgia stumbled to the ground before having a seizure. She’d never had one before and it was distressing for all of us to watch and of course for her to experience. Luckily she came out of it quickly and there was a paediatric nurse from Switzerland swimming who came over to offer assistance and reassurance. Not knowing why this had happened we decided to go back into Kununurra to have her checked out in hospital.
The day wasn’t much fun for Georgia being poked and prodded at hospital but she was extremely brave and endured some pretty uncomfortable stuff. Being a lover of all things cat, she did however perk up at the mention of having a CAT scan. That and the gift her sister bought her were the only highlights of an otherwise emotional and miserable day.
As with all the kids’ birthdays there is always much excitement and today was no different. LOL’s (Georgia’s favourite toy for the last few years), was the theme of this birthday, so it was all things LOL’s this year. Cake, decorations, balloons, gifts and she loved it!
[Photo of Georgia’s LOL birthday decorations and cake]
It was an early start at about 0530 but the birthday girl was awake and couldn’t wait. The rest of the day was just relaxed, playing with toys, decorating and eating cake and then watching the sun set over the Kimberley at Saddleback lookout. We returned to the van for Georgia’s requested dinner of sushi burgers. A delight she discovered in Darwin and thankfully not too tricky to replicate. Happy 8th Birthday Georgie!
The following day we visited El Questro Gorge doing the gorge walk to the Halfway Pool. Only 2.6km of scrambling through rocky riverbed, and picking your way through some muddy sections. Eventually you meet up with the spring-fed creek offering shallow, clear pools of water and the soundtrack of a babbling brook. It’s a beautiful walk through the towering Kimberley red rock gorge and you’re rewarded with a fresh but lovely swim at the end.
I’d packed a picnic lunch and we’d found a nice large flat rock to sit upon to enjoy the views back down the gorge and to the pool we would soon swim in. It wasn’t just the girls who enjoyed the picnic but the fish in the water hole below the rock we were perched on. They had loads of fun watching the fish feed and chase each other hoping to steal another bit of burger pattie.
The swim was beautiful and it’s at this point folk choose to climb up the falls and carry on for the rest of the gorge walk but for us we were content. Lulu did great. She doesn’t like boring old walking but once there are a few rocks to scramble and climb over, well, “put me down, I do it”. And she is now just swimming on her own with a noodle and loving the freedom to kick about and go where she pleases in the water. Such joy!
The drive out to El Questro Gorge takes you through one of the deepest river crossings, aptly named Deep Water Crossing. Ken loves getting the car wet, I guess it’s the sense of adventure and maybe a saving on his efforts to wash the car. After a rest in the arvo we took a drive out to Branko’s Lookout for sunset. A fun and adventurous drive through river crossings, past the Durack Tree and up a steep hill, to be rewarded with stunning views.
Our fifth day at El Questro saw more adventure with Ken starting off at sunrise to go heli-fishing and the girls a few hours later finally doing a little horse riding. The heli-fishing is as it sounds I guess, flying in a helicopter to inaccessible and remote fishing spots. Ken dreams of catching a 1 metre barramundi on this trip, but it wasn’t to be today. The experience was epic though. Nipping around the station to 3 different sites taking in beautiful scenery and the thrill of chasing that barra. To Georgia’s delight he did catch a catfish but let it live to die another day.
The horse riding went really well. The girls just loved it. Today was just a brief 30min get familiar with the horse and riding and tomorrow we are going to do a one hour ride together. I loved horse riding when I was younger and am hoping the girls might also develop a real passion for riding too. With the first ride under their belts we were all looking forward to the next day. A beautiful trail through the bush, rocky riverbeds and a couple of river crossings ourselves. The girls did well for first timers and loved their horses, Charlotte on Rose and Georgia on Mango.
El Questro was turning out to be a real delight. Our final days we enjoyed a visit from Val and Martin for lunch, (Val has known me since I was a toddler). It was so lovely to spend some time together and share stories and knowledge of travels around the area. More swimming at picturesque swimming hole, Moonshine Gorge, an outdoor movie one evening and a night out at the restaurant.
Bravo El Questro!