We’ve done a bit of backtracking to not miss out on time at Lake Argyle. We’d planned for Georgia’s birthday at El Questro and just had to scoot past to get there on time. So glad we went back, not only is it beautiful but fascinating and only added to the fabric of our Kimberley adventure.
So firstly some information on Lake Argyle. I knew nothing other than it was big and there were pink diamonds nearby. Back in 1883 the Durack family arrived in the East Kimberley and established themselves as leaders in the beef industry. It was some years later, in the next generation of Duracks, that the idea of building a dam to harness the abundant resource of the Ord River to sustain an agricultural industry in the fertile plains of the lower Ord River arose. During the wet the Ord was a fast flowing furious river and during the dry season reduced to a series of billabongs.
The building of the dam would transform semi-desert cattle country into a lush, year-round agricultural area. So Lake Argyle is the first part of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. Formed with the construction of the Ord River Dam (completed in 1963), and now a hydro-electric power station (completed in 19.), has tamed the Ord River which flows year-round, down to Kununurra (a town created to support the scheme). At Kununurra the Kununurra Diversion Dam (completed in 1963) was designed to divert water from the Ord River onto the Ivanhoe Plain for irrigation.
We were fortunate to take a flight from Kununurra to see the Bungle Bungles. An added bonus is getting an aerial perspective of the landscape and the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. It is just amazing to drive home the enormity of vision and labours that came to be, to bring this dream of the Kimberley Duracks to fruition. One of Australia’s most significant engineering feats. There are plenty of stats one can rattle off that speak to its epic tale but it’s just gob-smacking that this semi-desert landscape now supports a thriving agricultural industry.
The campground is well organised and affords warm Kimberley hospitality, and by that I mean music in the evening. Our first evening we took our chairs up to the grassed area overlooking Lake Argyle and watched the acoustic set with the most amazing backdrop. The colour of the cliffs changing through various shades of red as the sun sets and the sky working through the different hues of blue, purple and pink. The kids ran around playing with the other kids and Ken and I got to share one of those rare moments of being alone.
The next day we visited the old Durack Homestead Museum. The homestead was set to be flooded when the lake filled and it was at the 11th hour a working party got busy dismantling it stone by stone, numbering as they went and it was eventually rebuilt becoming the museum it is today. That afternoon we joined the sunset cruise on Lake Argyle. A fascinating and beautiful few hours. It was a little windy and too chilly for Ken and I to take a dip as the sun was setting but the kids had a ball jumping off the boat. All to the backdrop of yet another stunning Kimberley sunset.
In the back of our minds, through all this awe and wonder, is that we may only have half the story. If there is one thing we have learnt on this trip, it is, there are many shades, of green, red, grey, blue and perspective. What about the environmental impact on the land, ecosystems and connection to this country of its traditional owners. What did they think of their country being flooded?
We had made the decision to take a flight over the Bungle Bungles. The kids weren’t that keen on the look of the helicopter and while they weren’t that fond of the Lake Eyre flight, didn’t seem to mind it in the end. So we drove back into Kunnu’s, did a little shopping, ogled at a few Argyle Pink Diamonds and went to the airport. I’d like to say it was great and the scenery and commentary was faultless but for some reason Ken and Georgia became airsick. Charlotte was feeling pretty uncomfortable, Lulu did her usual and fell asleep and other than being concerned for the rest of the family, I had a great flight.
By the time we got to the Bungles (approx 1 hr flight time), Charlotte was begging to go home, Ken was filling sick bags and now Georgia was also asleep. So Beck, our pilot, and I decided to just do a quick fly by and head directly home. The scenery of the whole flight was stunning, the aerial view of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, Packsaddle Plains, Ord River Dam, Lake Argyle (all 65km of it), Texas Downs Cattle Station, The Carr Boyd Ranges, The Bungle Bungles, Argyle Diamond Mine and the Cockburn Ranges. It really was fantastic but no one wanted to get back in a small plane ever again.
After a few hectic days we decided on a couple of down days, just hanging about camp. Cleaning, cooking, schooling, preparing to start the Gibb River Road and Ken was still recovering from the flight. And we’d promised the kids a swim in the stunning but freezing and famous infinity pool. Such a stunning view, who could refuse. It was indeed freezing and had me thinking of Tassie.
On our final night we popped down to the bar for a beer and a dance. A lot of this travelling life hasn’t felt much like a holiday, most of the time it’s pretty hectic. But here in the Kimberley there have been the moments where it really feels like a holiday. The warmth / heat has definitely slowed us down and increased the need for a cold beer and icy pole more often. The Kimberley sure has a great vibe.
