As you leave Coober the piles of dirt from opal mines gradually begin to decrease and the landscape returns to an undisturbed flat, red, arid vista. It’s an uneventful travel day today as we push north, hoping to make Alice Springs the following day.
We’ve arranged to meet the Durston family at the Agnes Creek Rest Area tonight but it’s just easier to travel at our own pace, stopping for breaks, lunch and firewood collection when it suits.
A long day driving, we pull in almost at the exact same time and find a perfect spot with a fire pit to share. The kids explode from the car and have a little play before setting up around the fire to compare and write journals together. They are just the loveliest young people and together just seem to bring out the best in each other. It’s wonderful seeing them so energised and enjoying the company so much.
Eventually, with dinner done and kids to bed, the parents get a chance to chill and socialise by the fire. The nights have been very cold since Marree, it’s beanie, scarf and warm woollens weather and the fires are cosy to huddle by. After a long drive and all agreeing to a bit of social fatigue it was early to bed for all bar me. The moon is full, the solitude was welcome and the coals and flame were the perfect company to catch up on a few blog posts. Time on your own is golden, there is not much of it and somehow I find it very hard to create.
The cold nights are also making it a challenge, for everyone, to get up in the morning. The van is pretty well insulated and sleeping with socks, warm pj’s, scarf, beanie, two blankets and a doona it’s cosy. No one wants to be the first up to put the diesel heater on. But boy that thing works great and was a super inclusion by Ken. Give it a minute and we are toasty warm and can consider getting up.
Lulu is still waking during the night and early mornings so with the cold and disturbed sleep I find myself struggling to get going in the morning. Throw in the time it takes to cook breakfast, do the dishes and clean up, get the day’s schooling done and finally packed away and prepare for a day’s travel, we are often a late getaway. The Durstons got away at a reasonable time, our departure was a little closer to lunchtime.
It was a good morning though and while the girls schooled as the sun warmed things up Lulu got familiar with the red dirt. Getting on the road today had an air of excitement to it. Firstly we were going to pull in again wherever the Durstons pulled up and we’d be crossing the border from South Australia into the Northern Territory. Neither Ken nor I have ever been in the Northern Territory and there are many wonderful sights to explore. However, the one thing we are not looking forward to is being in croc country again.
Once on the road we only have a quick stop at the border to get the picture and stretch the legs, but with our late start need to push on to get to Alice tonight. Mel has sent me the details and we pull in right next to them at the showgrounds. Perfect!
The road in was reported to be pretty good but you come to realise how broad a statement “good” is when you talk to a variety of people. Coming into Coober is pretty exciting for a couple of reasons. Firstly it’s such an iconic town in Australia, secondly they mine pretty shiny things – Opals, and lastly it has a supermarket!
It’s been a fortnight since we’ve seen a supermarket. Now that’s not really a long time but we’re spoilt city folk, who love our food and I miss the conveniences of a supermarket. Always good though to get a reminder of how easy we’ve got it.
Our first day and night were pretty low key. Shopping, cooking, cleaning, washing, school and repairs on the car and van. We let the other families know where we were staying and were thrilled when they turned up later that day. It was Friday and the girls were keen to invite everyone over for movie night. It was a fun night for both kids and parents as we all enjoyed an evening swapping stories and having a laugh.
Having not yet explored much of the sights, we got amongst it the next day visiting Crocodile Harry’s Underground House. We were keen to see some of these underground dwellings and it was indeed fascinating. Harry’s house had a flair for the bizarre and that is what it’s famous for. From there we checked out the Main Street, opals and the underground Catholic Church.
From there we performed our good deed of the day finding someone’s purse with phone and all her holiday cash! Luckily we were able to ring the last number called and it was the lady’s son who was able to locate his mum without much delay and she was only down the road. Finding her at the pizza shop we decided to reward ourselves with a pizza, (the first in 8 months, since the Coeliac diagnosis). The place had rave reviews and sold the famous Coat of Arms Pizza – Emu and Kangaroo. Who could refuse, we just had to try it. Disappointingly they were out of Emu, nice enough but nothing special. Poor Ken couldn’t handle all those carbs and had to sleep it off for the afternoon.
In the afternoon we gathered with the other families at The Breakaways for sunset, drinks and nibbles. The Breakaways is a national park of rugged beauty. Stunning rock formations and features combining the red iron-rich rock and soft white limestone. The contrast of colours makes for a beautiful landscape. With the sun setting in one direction and the moon rising in the other it is easy to see and feel why this rates so highly as a must see and do in Coober. For us it was all the more special as the company was also top notch.
On our last day we visited the Umoona Opal Mine & Museum. Having done an opal mine tour in Lightning Ridge we didn’t bother with that but the museum and opal shop were both fabulous. The final shopping, cooking, washing and repairs were complete, gas bottles and water tank were filled and we were set for departure the next day.
It’s worth mentioning the quality of Coober water. We’d heard reports of it being good but discovered the town’s water supply was processed through reverse osmosis.
Both the other families had found accommodation in an underground house for a night or two and Mel and Brett invited us over for dinner. It was great to get to see a functional underground home and spend a few hours in it, but spending a very relaxed and enriching evening getting to know Mel and Brett a little more was the highlight. The kids just played beautifully together and it was nice spending time and making a real connection with like-minded folks.
It looks like we are both heading north tomorrow so we made some plans to co-ordinate our next camp’s location and keep the fun rolling.
We arrive and squeeze into the William Creek Caravan Park. The place is heaving! With Lake Eyre filling, the tourists have come from all over. You can access the lake at ground level but doing a flight is a popular way to see this great Australian lake.
The Lake Eyre Basin is one of the world’s largest internally draining systems, covering 22% of the Australian continent. It is the final collection point for water flowing from surrounding watercourses, including Cooper Creek, Georgina-Diamantina and Warburton Rivers. Unlike other great river systems in Australia (i.e. the Murray/Darling), these have been left to flow freely and have not been interfered with, dammed or drained for irrigation purposes.
Allowing Mother Nature to do her thing has enabled the ecosystems that rely upon these waters to survive and thrive. Sure, it makes it tough for the pastoralists and it’s no doubt tempting, but they seem to understand the importance of leaving it be to maintain a balance and they have found ways to solve their own problems without creating another for future generations. What a refreshing and intelligent approach!
At the beginning of our trip we travelled along the Darling River but hardly saw any water and we continually see news, reports and comments from other travellers about how that river system is dying, along with the flora, fauna and livelihoods of the people who have built towns, homes and stations along its once powerful and abundant banks. Last we heard Broken Hill is getting desperately low on water, will they survive?
Along with the Great Dividing Range another recurrent travelling partner of ours has been the Great Artesian Basin. It literally pops up everywhere with springs and hot baths all over the place. And here she features again. The Lake Eyre Basin overlies the Great Artesian Basin, which is the largest and deepest underground reservoir in the world, holding about 65,000 gigalitres or 130,000 Sydney Harbours of water. The relationship between the aquifers’ ground water and Lake Eyre’s surface water is largely unknown.
What an amazing country we live in. Even more amazing was how quickly the girls got their school work and journal writing completed the afternoon we arrived. However they were highly motivated with their new friends from Marree arriving any tick of the clock. With much excitement the vans rolled in and squeezed into any space that was left. It’s lovely to see the kids so excited to see and be with other kids. We’ve not really come across too many other families on the road so I think the girls have been a little starved and greatly miss these fun interactions with peers.
The next day we take our flight over Lake Eyre at 1000, unfortunately we couldn’t get on the sunrise flight, but at least we got a sleep in. Luckily we ended up in a small 6 seater Cessna so it was just our family crammed in, which made it more relaxing and very enjoyable.
I’d packed snacks to help pass the two hour flight time and the girls did pretty well.
Once up in the air the nerves abated and they mostly enjoyed it, for them it was probably half an hour to an hour too long. Lulu fell asleep to the drone of the engines and for Ken and I the time seemed to pass quickly.
The pilot was great and the view stunning. Upon reflection, as I now write this blog many months since we took the flight, the four things that remain vivid to my mind and feeling are;
The distance it has had to travel and time it takes to get here (approx. 5/6 months).
The epic size and amount of water it must take to fill the lake.
The 50 shades of pastel, blue, greens, white, pinks and brown of the lake’s surface.
The 50 shades of red, orange and brown that make up the dry Australian outback that surrounds the lake.
We’re glad to be back on the ground but totally pumped by what we’ve just experienced.
After the flight we farewelled the other families, hitched up the van and got on the road again. Destination Coober Pedy.
The mornings rain while welcome, exciting and surprising to all was a little concerning for those of us traveling today. As we drove past the start of the Birdsville Track we noticed the rain had closed the track in that direction. Here’s hoping the Oodnadatta was going to remain open.
All was well, a little muddy but not bad enough to rough up the track too much. Probably mostly because it is so rocky. The Oodnadatta follows the old Ghan railway line to the town of Oodnadatta, we are only traveling the section to William Creek but it will still take us two days to get there.
It’s a fairly long driving day with just a few stops at some old ruins of railway station, bridges and a rather stunning junk sculpture yard. The road was pretty rough, corrugated, dusty and rocky but it doesn’t bother us too much. We pull up at a roadside camp for the night and are treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets of the trip so far.
Our next day on the track start with a bang. Literally we’d just pulled onto the road from our over night stay, travelled about 500 m’s and bang a stone flick up from a pacing car cracks the windscreen. The sound was louder than usual but I couldn’t spot the crack or chip. Then I noticed tiny glass shards on the dashboard. It had hit right low down at the edge and punched a hole right through.
We pulled over and attempted a repair, without any success we continued on hoping we didn’t cop another direct hit. The track has been pretty busy, I think all the excitement over Lake Eyre filling up this year has bought not only the flood water but a flood of tourists wanting a see this rare event.
We make a rest stop at the southern end of Lake Eyre, the lowest place on the Australian mainland at 12 to 15 meter below sea level, (it depends which sign you read). No water has reached here yet but the lake is still filling and they are expecting the water from the second flood event of the wet season to reach here in a few more weeks time. There seems to be much debate about whether or not it will fill completely and we are hearing reports we have arrived a couple of weeks ahead of the masses of bird life that appear as the lake fills.
The rest of the track is pretty similar more rocky, dusty, corrugated road and flat, dry, arid, expansive views. Until we come across a couple of natural springs. We decided to take a look so turned off the track for an adventure. We passed Blanche Cup Mound Spring and carried on to Mound Springs also called ‘The Bubbler’, as the spring just bubbles up from below. It is mesmerizing to watch different size bubbles coming up making patterns in the sandy bottom of the pool. A real oasis in the middle of a dry landscape. No trees but lush grasses and the sound of a babbling brook, totally unexpected and beautiful.
By late afternoon we pull into William Creek and settle in for the night.
We pull into Marree early and after a little scout around town and visit to the shops we head to the Drovers Rest Tourist Park. A large and sparse caravan park but with the cutest little crafty touches about the place, that gave it a warm well loved feel.
Marree – home of the very first Mosque in Australia
Being early the park was pretty empty but gradually filled up as the day went on. It was a steady stream of 3 bunk vans pulling in one after another, until there was a possy of 12 kids. The owners of the park were lovely but I don’t think they knew what hit them when the kids got into full swing. However that said as we sat around the communal fire pit at night we all had plenty of stories to tell.
Marree – meeting place for 3 bunk vans!
We were blown away when the host Jo made a separate gluten free damper for Georgia. I haven’t gotten around to finding a recipe and this was above and beyond. So Georgia didn’t miss out I had actually made her a batch in the van to cook on the fire so we had gluten free damper galore. Jo’s was delicious made with Chickpea flour but whether Georgia was distracted with her new friends or not she wasn’t too keen on either. Doh!
That night was much fun socializing, either sitting around the fire or standing by the vans chatting, as the kids ran around and eventually all settled down to write their journals together. What a great bunch of parents and awesome kids, and the best bit we are all traveling in the same direction so its likely we’ll be spending a bit more time together. I have really missed friends and that beautiful buzz you get from making connection with like minded people on a regular basis.
Camels were a huge part of exploring the arid interior on Australia
Some of us are leaving the next day and others are going to be a day behind but we are all travelling the Oodnadatta Track and meeting up at William Creek in two days time. It had really cooled down over night and we’d speculated around the fire about there being rain. Brent the owner was quick to shut it down with a comment of “there’d be 40 heart attacks in town if it rained, it’s not rained in 4 years!” Well here’s hoping everyone survived the shock as in the morning it rained, a fairly decent shower to. We were then blessed with the most spectacular double rainbow.
It hadn’t rained in Marree for four years
Marree this small town in the middle of nowhere had turned out to be one of our most memorable camps. Not for the fact it’s home to the Lake Eyre Yacht Club (raises eyebrows as the lake only fills once every 50 years), or the history of it being an old Afghan town, or home to Australia’s first Mosque, or a feature of the old Ghan railway. But for new friends, rare rain and rainbows.
Home of the Lake Eyre Yacht Club – they meet once every 50 years!
We spent two nights on the Birdsville Track and while the sign said the road was closed we’d have official word it was now open so off we went. The track was good, a changing surface but mostly rock and it wasn’t long before we came across our first crossing.
I got out to walk it just to be sure which also gave us a chance to have a look at some of the wild flowers and this large squadron of pelicans, no doubt following the water to Lake Eyre.
Was a bit sandy in parts!
Other than that early crossing it was a pretty uneventful drive. A little water around, pretty green, flat, wide open plains and big sky’s. We also said farewell to Queensland and crossed the border into South Australia.
Pulling up for the night we missed to turn for the camp site but being self contained it wasn’t too much of a bother and we just pulled up in a dry creek bed a few more km’s up the road. We caught the last of the warmth from the sun as we set up and the flies were out in force but as the sun set and the temperature drop they disappeared to where ever they go when it get too cold. A very peaceful night was spent by the fire and under the star.
Red Tree Galactic Core
Morning fun while we pack up
The next morning we got on the road earlish and arrived at Mungerannie by lunch time.
What a weirdo and funny stop that was. Toilet, food and then we had a bit of time to wonder and chat with folks while Ken and an attendant had a look at our slow puncture. Turned out we only need to plug it which was great. The fella was a volunteer traveler helping out for a few days as the owner was sick. So he just helped Ken and gave him some good tips on how to use the stuff we had for repairs but had never used before.
Meanwhile the girls and I being entertained by the character how owns the place and really should have been in bed apparently. I don’t know if he was just eccentric or it was the medication but it was a pretty weird exchange.
A singing bear with a cigarette hanging out it mouth, the owner with a shot gun under his arm the whole time, Charlotte starting to freak out in the strange and unfamiliar environment and I was just trying to keep it all normal. We were happy to be back on the road again.
Get me outa here!
That evening we pulled up for the night at Clayton Wetlands Campground. A well known pastoral station. The camp ground was basic but all you need a patch of dirt and boasted a hot tub. Well that sounded like fun and too good to refuse. We got set up and filled the tub with hot water straight from the artesian bore. It was pretty cool for the middle of no where but I had trouble with the tub not being able to be drained properly old water sitting it, the slimy bottom and the creature I’d never seen before swimming in it.
Not wanting to put the girls off and make the too precious about a bit of muck and creatures, I didnt make a fuss and grinned and bared it. I tired to keep their heads out the water and was thankful when the week after our dip passed and no one came down with any serious illness! Another camp fire more marvelous stars and a good nights sleep.
Been here a while
The next morning we only had 60 km’s before reaching Marree and the end of the Birdsville Track. It had felt like an adventure, the landscapes epic and thankfully the roads pretty tame.
What a stinker! The forecast is for the records to fall with a max of 48 degrees celsius. It certainly is the hottest we’ve ever experienced, burning not just your skin but your nostrils as you breathed in the hot air. Regardless of the scorching weather we were excited! Nothing was going to put a dampener on seeing Heidi and Ruby today.
Our ferry to Kangaroo Island wasn’t until 6pm. So with time to kill and the McClaren Vale, (another of S.A.’s top wine regions), just 15 minuets away, it would have been rude not stop and taste the flavours. There is no better place than d’Arenberg. So we booked lunch and arranged to rendezvous with Heidi and Ruby here.
Golidlocks at the Cube
We have loved their wines for many years, stopping here in 2007 on our way home, after living in Melbourne. Since then however things have expanded and they have built ‘The Cube’. Wine tasting, restaurants, events space, and wine museum. All sounds pretty normal but there is nothing normal about the extraordinary experience of The Cube. Multi sensory, quirky, crazy from the moment you arrive. Suspend all expectation and enjoy the journey down the rabbit hole is the best advice.
The quirky Cube!
But by far the best bit was meeting up with Heidi and Ruby. A reunion at the top of the cube was just amazing, as was the food we enjoyed in the restaurant. It was so surreal sitting across the table chatting sharing a beautiful meal and seeing the girls just picking right up where they’d left off some 9 months earlier. They are just so cute together.
Besties on KI
After hiding out in the air-conditioning for as long as we could it was time to hit the road and make our way to the ferry. The journey wasn’t without incident as the extreme heat was all too much for Audrey, the car. On a long and reasonably steep hill, the engine temp just got too hot kicking into a safety mode, which left us limping up the hill. Intermittently we’d lose power and be reduced to a crawl before it kicked back in for 30 seconds and then die again. Slow and steady we made it, hoping there weren’t any other hills to come.
The ferry was pretty straight forward, accept for the bit that was in reverse. Loading the van and car on required Ken to back it on to the ferry, which he nailed. Heidi also did a great job, in a new vehicle, in the stinking heat, but she was making it all look easy, like the boss lady she is.
Reversing the van onto the KI ferry – nailed it!
Getting off the ferry at about 7pm we opted to spend the first couple of nights in nearby Kingscote. It wasn’t too far to drive that evening and gave us the chance to explore to eastern side of the island before having our last four nights at the western end of the island. We pulled in and set up, but it was just so damn hot and not much fun! A real baptism of fire for Heidi and Ruby. The heat, with not even a breath of wind was just a killer and it only compounded the adjustment to the dusty / dirty / lack of privacy lifestyle, that can be the traveling camping life. It’s fair to say at this point Heidi was wondering what she had gotten herself into.
We got through dinner and somehow Heidi got Ruby to sleep in the hot little minivan. The floor of which was still roasting from radiant heat off the road surface. A new record was set for the hottest day, officially reaching 46.5 and then finally at 11.30 p.m. the cool change arrived. It was still a sleepless night for our visitor but at least the heat was gone and it could only get better from here.
The following day was almost cold. What a contrast from the day before. After breakfast, Heidi and I were inducted into the LOL (latest kids craze for our girls) club before we hopped into the car / van and made our way Stokes Bay Beach. Turning up the the bay itself didn’t look that impressive or maybe it was the inclement weather. Other travelers had told us to find our way through the rocks and then you come out on a beautiful beach, they weren’t wrong.
It was an adventure itself getting through the rocks, twisting, turning, crouching through low passes and then a lovely little lagoon and the beach beyond is revealed.
Stokes Bay Beach
Too cold for us big kids to swim but the kids weren’t going to let a drop of nearly 20 degree put them off. Although it wasn’t long before they too were feeling cool. After a bit of sand play we made our way back to the cars before finding somewhere for lunch. Unfortunately as is often the case, we were assured on the phone that gluten free eating is all good. However then when we try and order it turns out there is only one thing Gigi can eat, usually a salad. The lady was very kind and tried to be as accommodating as possible but not much fun for Gigi. The views at least were stunning.
We returned back to camp for a rest and later enjoyed a beautiful walk along the beach and a couple of beautiful wines. The kids were exhausted and were no trouble getting to sleep. Enjoying just a few more glasses of wine and chat we also retired earlish. Heidi was still trying to catch up on a few missed winks from the night before.
Australia Day today and it’s a travel day. Moving to the other end of the island with a stop off at Seal Bay along the way. We did a fabulous tour and had the chance to get down on the beach with the endangered Australian Sea Lion. Totally gorgeous they are and it was a delight watching them on the beach. The youngest being playful in the surf and the older one keeping the order of things just right.
Tough being a Sea Lion
Heavily hunted for there fur and oil their populations are still recovering however there are concerns for their survival as the colonies are struggling to grow. More research is required. It was something special to be on the beach with them even if it was from a distance. They can be very playful and relaxed in the water if they approach you however on land they are slow moving, making them more vulnerable, defensive and aggressive.
KI Sea Lions
A short drive down the road we pulled into Vivonne Bay for a beachside van lunch. The colour of the water was absolutely amazing but the wind, wild and most unwelcoming. After lunch I braved it out of the van down to the beach and received a complimentary exfoliation. Nature at its extremes, beautiful and brutal all in the one moment.
Vivonne Bay
Finally we pulled into the camp. Looking into the towering eucalyptus we spotted three koala’s before even checking in. The park was pretty empty so we scouted about and found a site that was going to suit us best. We weren’t even set up before Wallace the wallaby decided to adopt us and the Cape Barren Geese wondered on by. Wallace made himself right at home and appreciated the bowl of water Georgia put out for him. Finally before the day was out an echidna caught our attention in the bush behind our site.
Wallace the Wallaby
It wasn’t the most spectacular location and didn’t have stunning views but it certain takes the cake for the most amazing wildlife experiences. I don’t know how the wildlife park down the road makes any money when all you have to do is stay here at Western KI Caravan Park.
The girls have a lot of play to catch up on and I always have a lot of washing to catch up on so we opted to just chill out van side today. Kenny treated us to some Keto Lammingtons, which were delicious! And Heidi and I were still enjoying the fruits of purchases made from D’arnberg. Wallace the ever faithful (to his stomach) wallaby was never far away and it seems all the noise in the night was the koala’s swapping trees.
Having had a lazy day yesterday it was time to get out and see some sights. First stop the Flinders Chase NP Visitor Centre. An other great Visitors Centre with a fabulous display of how the region was formed, the history of the animals and peoples who have lived here. We spent a good amount of time here before getting out in the park and visiting Admiral Arch and Remarkable rocks.
Kangaroo Island – Admiral Arch and Hanson Bay
Both were remarkable and it was an absolutely beautiful day. We had taken a picnic of rice paper rolls but with a howling wind and no shelter from the midday sun we opted for a mini van picnic by the lighthouse. Heidi’s mini van was very basic and didn’t much enjoy the unsealed roads but all the girls loved having a bed to lie on, be it for watching a movie or having lunch on while out and about.
The evening produced two shows one an LOL performance, put on my the three girls and the other by a Koala who was on the hunt for some more juicy young leaves. I was surprised to look out the van window to see a large Koala walking past. He then walked around the back of the van, had a good look at us and then jumped up the tree nearest the van. The usual encounter with Koala’s is just staring at a tiny, sleeping bear way up in a tree. But these guys stay pretty low down and aren’t too shy, which is amazing.
Koala strolls through the camp
Our penultimate day on the island was a beach day at beautiful Hanson Bay. White sands and crystal waters just beautiful! The girls are still getting the hang of the boogie boards and it was a first for Ruby. Seeing them play, get dumped, help each other recover, get back out there and make memories in the surf together was just magic. We love our beach days and it was lol the more special for getting to share it with Heidi and Ruby. Can’t wait to do more when we get home.
Our final day is really a travel day and we are all trying to not think about the the farewell. We pack up, hitch up and drive the nearly two hours to the other end of the island to Penneshaw, where the ferry arrives and departs. A picnic lunch and play before we board and soak up our last 45 minuet together. Once we disembark we know it’s going to be a bit chaotic with other vehicles and passengers everywhere so we are ready for a quick but tearful goodbye.
Picnic before getting on the ferry
It was heartbreaking watching Georgie and Ruby farewell each other. They are a match made in heaven and I hate separating them, but they both do a super job squeezing all the love they can into each other with one last embrace. We then jump in the car with wet, blurry eyes that don’t dry up for nearly another hour. Dear sweet girls.
On our way back to the mainland
Heidi and Ruby head back towards Adelaide for a night in a comfy bed, the privacy of walls, doors and your own bathroom! Such simple luxuries we take for granted everyday. For us we are legging it back to Melbourne to get ready for the next adventure, Tasmania.
