We’d hoped to get further than Carnarvon but the drive out of Ningaloo Station took a little longer. We’ve got three days to get back to Perth so we don’t really have to push it too hard. Needing fresh food, Carnarvon was a perfect place to stop as it’s a large agricultural area.
We pulled into a caravan park for the night and it was a great night’s stay. The park was pretty empty so there was lots of space and the kind lady put us right next to the playground. Lulu was in heaven, a playground just 7 steps away from her van. Within seconds the kids were gone and playing.
I’d thought we might be free camping for these last two nights before getting home and having been on water rations in Ningaloo, plugging into mains water was awesome. I had plenty of washing and cleaning to catch up on and we were all feeling pretty crusty too.
On another stroke of luck Tuesday night was their famous spud night, all gluten free. It was too tempting to have the night off cooking. I bought tickets for everyone and without the need to cook got busy washing and cleaning. The spud night was delicious. It even turned into dinner and a show, when Charlotte and another girl put on a dance. Gold!
[Photo of spud night at the caravan park]
Thanks Carnarvon!
So here we are, last night on this epic adventure, last night in the van (for a while). How does it feel? Well it’s different for all of us.
Lulu is the easiest because she’s just happy to be wherever we are. So present and in the moment, just love little people for this example of how to live.
Georgia is so calm and controlled in her expression but is very much looking forward to being home. At times I’ve asked if she’d like to go home and end the trip but to my surprise the answer was no. But now we are so close, she is busting to get there. Have her own bed, where she won’t hit her head when she wakes in the morning or rolls over in the night, a place to put out her LOL’s and not have to pack them up because it’s too windy or someone needs to get into the bathroom, and see Grandma, Papa, Ruby and River.
With that said though she is quite clingy at the moment and worried about going back to school and not being with me all the time. There is definitely going to be an adjustment period for our introverted middle munchkin.
Charlotte is vocally and visibly out of sorts. For most of the trip she has wanted to come home and now we are coming home she doesn’t want to. Change is a challenge for dear Charlotte and her head is abuzz with this and that, she’s definitely finding it tough but with love and support she’ll get there, she and we will be exhausted but we’ll get there.
She has loved many elements of the trip, loves travel and adventure but I think one of the most amazing things is, she tells me she has a better sense of who she is and what she likes. I had hoped a time away from the complicated social setting of school may help her work out a few things about herself and it sounds like she may have gained that.
Ken and I are on the same page, we’ve loved it but we’ve had enough and are excited about what comes next. The travel, experiences, people, places, sights and delights, have been just awesome. We feel proud to have done it, made it happen and survived it. But make no mistake, as with all of life, there have been ups and downs, highs and lows, fights, arguments, harsh words and insightful awakenings and as the Genie in Aladdin says “All in an itty bitty living space”.
This has been a favourite destination of ours for a number of years now and it was on our last holiday here that we decided to do this lap of Oz adventure that we are currently on. To be back here now has a sense of ‘full circle’ about it.
As you drive into the national park you start to catch glimpses of the water and wow. Feels like we’d forgotten how exquisitely turquoise/aqua the water is. Flanked by the rugged ranges on one side and the dunes and water on the other, it’s a pleasant drive. It is with much anticipation and the warmth of greeting an old friend we arrive at our campsite (#41).
Immediately we are greeted by the cockatoos and Georgia, the carer of all creatures great and small, puts out a water bowl for them. They enjoy the fresh water and frequently return to camp to quench their thirst during our stay.
After set up it was time for lunch before hitting the beach and getting up close with the reef. Georgia and Ken were straight into the snorkelling and it was as good as we remembered. There is a horseshoe shaped coral shelf which is a great place to spot all sorts of fish, with ledges to hide under and deeper water, it always provides a great and varied experience.
t was not only our fishy friends we were delighted to see but another couple of families we’ve met along the road a few times already. We had all arrived that day so got to spend a few days chatting and even got together for birthday drinks as it was my birthday and one of the other mums in 2 days’ time. It was a fun evening, we have met some really lovely people on our travels and while there is no denying the country is huge the travelling community is like a little village.
The days are beautifully sunny and warm, but the winds were variable. At times we were reluctant or didn’t even bother walking the 15m to the beach, preferring instead to wait for the part of the day when the winds would die down. Regardless of the winds it’s a stunningly beautiful and peaceful place, you can’t help but feel relaxed and lucky to be there.
Turtles, turtles, turtles and more turtles. We’ve never seen so many turtles here. There were 3-5 constantly grazing on the reef nearest our camp and on the last day we got to hang with a big guy out at the ‘horseshoe’. On that last snorkel Georgia got to swim so close with a smaller turtle, diving down with it and surfacing together. It was just beautiful to watch and would have made epic footage had I taken the GoPro with me.🤦🏽♀️ Fortunately Ken did!
The SUP (Stand Up Paddle Board) was out and we could just leave it nestled into the dunes. I had a couple of fantastic paddles and the kids loved playing on it. They are going to be excellent boarders. Again I didn’t have my camera on me but as Alicia and I walked up the beach chatting, the 4 girls (Charlotte, Georgia and 2 mates) were paddling along next to us. One sitting on the front of the board, Charlotte in the middle paddling, one sitting on the back and Georgia on a boogie board attached to the SUP kicking and being dragged along. The photo would have been great however being in the moment is always enough!
My birthday was on the last day. The day started with yellow balloons, gifts, cards and coffee in bed, followed by a paddle board with Charlotte, before returning for pancakes. Then the weather had turned it on for the best morning with low winds. This made for an awesome beach morning/snorkelling, taking both Charlotte and Georgie out.
With a hunger worked up we returned for lunch and a chill. I received a couple of magazines and sudoku puzzle books, both guilty pleasures for a busy mum and was under instruction to read and do both…. well if you insist. Then the evening rounded out with lettuce, a kilo of sweet Exmouth prawns 🦐 and seafood sauce. Honestly, the beez kneez!
What better way to celebrate Leonie’s birthday to go for a sunset beach walk upto the point!
With a hunger worked up we returned for lunch and a chill. I received a couple of magazines and sudoku puzzle books, both guilty pleasures for a busy mum and was under instruction to read and do both…. well if you insist. Then the evening rounded out with lettuce, a kilo of sweet Exmouth prawns 🦐 and seafood sauce. Honestly, the beez kneez!
With only a chance of internet at night as long as it wasn’t windy I didn’t get messages until the next day but it was a beautiful birthday. Grateful for my kind and thoughtful family and this magnificent location.
Osprey Bay, you’ve done it again. Even after travelling Oz you’re still right up there as our favourite, or at least in the top 5 campsites.
We’ve done a bit of backtracking to not miss out on time at Lake Argyle. We’d planned for Georgia’s birthday at El Questro and just had to scoot past to get there on time. So glad we went back, not only is it beautiful but fascinating and only added to the fabric of our Kimberley adventure.
So firstly some information on Lake Argyle. I knew nothing other than it was big and there were pink diamonds nearby. Back in 1883 the Durack family arrived in the East Kimberley and established themselves as leaders in the beef industry. It was some years later, in the next generation of Duracks, that the idea of building a dam to harness the abundant resource of the Ord River to sustain an agricultural industry in the fertile plains of the lower Ord River arose. During the wet the Ord was a fast flowing furious river and during the dry season reduced to a series of billabongs.
The building of the dam would transform semi-desert cattle country into a lush, year-round agricultural area. So Lake Argyle is the first part of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. Formed with the construction of the Ord River Dam (completed in 1963), and now a hydro-electric power station (completed in 19.), has tamed the Ord River which flows year-round, down to Kununurra (a town created to support the scheme). At Kununurra the Kununurra Diversion Dam (completed in 1963) was designed to divert water from the Ord River onto the Ivanhoe Plain for irrigation.
We were fortunate to take a flight from Kununurra to see the Bungle Bungles. An added bonus is getting an aerial perspective of the landscape and the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. It is just amazing to drive home the enormity of vision and labours that came to be, to bring this dream of the Kimberley Duracks to fruition. One of Australia’s most significant engineering feats. There are plenty of stats one can rattle off that speak to its epic tale but it’s just gob-smacking that this semi-desert landscape now supports a thriving agricultural industry.
The campground is well organised and affords warm Kimberley hospitality, and by that I mean music in the evening. Our first evening we took our chairs up to the grassed area overlooking Lake Argyle and watched the acoustic set with the most amazing backdrop. The colour of the cliffs changing through various shades of red as the sun sets and the sky working through the different hues of blue, purple and pink. The kids ran around playing with the other kids and Ken and I got to share one of those rare moments of being alone.
The next day we visited the old Durack Homestead Museum. The homestead was set to be flooded when the lake filled and it was at the 11th hour a working party got busy dismantling it stone by stone, numbering as they went and it was eventually rebuilt becoming the museum it is today. That afternoon we joined the sunset cruise on Lake Argyle. A fascinating and beautiful few hours. It was a little windy and too chilly for Ken and I to take a dip as the sun was setting but the kids had a ball jumping off the boat. All to the backdrop of yet another stunning Kimberley sunset.
In the back of our minds, through all this awe and wonder, is that we may only have half the story. If there is one thing we have learnt on this trip, it is, there are many shades, of green, red, grey, blue and perspective. What about the environmental impact on the land, ecosystems and connection to this country of its traditional owners. What did they think of their country being flooded?
We had made the decision to take a flight over the Bungle Bungles. The kids weren’t that keen on the look of the helicopter and while they weren’t that fond of the Lake Eyre flight, didn’t seem to mind it in the end. So we drove back into Kunnu’s, did a little shopping, ogled at a few Argyle Pink Diamonds and went to the airport. I’d like to say it was great and the scenery and commentary was faultless but for some reason Ken and Georgia became airsick. Charlotte was feeling pretty uncomfortable, Lulu did her usual and fell asleep and other than being concerned for the rest of the family, I had a great flight.
By the time we got to the Bungles (approx 1 hr flight time), Charlotte was begging to go home, Ken was filling sick bags and now Georgia was also asleep. So Beck, our pilot, and I decided to just do a quick fly by and head directly home. The scenery of the whole flight was stunning, the aerial view of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, Packsaddle Plains, Ord River Dam, Lake Argyle (all 65km of it), Texas Downs Cattle Station, The Carr Boyd Ranges, The Bungle Bungles, Argyle Diamond Mine and the Cockburn Ranges. It really was fantastic but no one wanted to get back in a small plane ever again.
After a few hectic days we decided on a couple of down days, just hanging about camp. Cleaning, cooking, schooling, preparing to start the Gibb River Road and Ken was still recovering from the flight. And we’d promised the kids a swim in the stunning but freezing and famous infinity pool. Such a stunning view, who could refuse. It was indeed freezing and had me thinking of Tassie.
On our final night we popped down to the bar for a beer and a dance. A lot of this travelling life hasn’t felt much like a holiday, most of the time it’s pretty hectic. But here in the Kimberley there have been the moments where it really feels like a holiday. The warmth / heat has definitely slowed us down and increased the need for a cold beer and icy pole more often. The Kimberley sure has a great vibe.
It’s fair to say that most of the time Ken and I have been pretty average at researching the areas we are travelling through. However, it can’t be said for Barrow Creek. Not high on the must-see list but for Ken who has had a morbid fascination with the Falconio murder, Barrow Creek was a must stop.
It was the last stop Joanne and Peter made before being flagged down, and just 12 km up the road where Peter disappeared / was murdered and Joanne escaped, hiding in the dark in bushes. Following the ordeal Joanne was taken back to Barrow Creek and stayed there until police arrived and the investigation warranted she could leave the scene.
We’d left Alice in the morning with the only plans being to stop at Barrow Creek and get as far up the road as we can. We had the sense that there wasn’t much to see on this road but after travelling it and studying WikiCamps while Ken drove, I realized how wrong we were. It was a shame but as with much of life you have to make choices and it not that they are right or wrong, they just are. We were feeling pressured for time and made the decision to make a leap up the country.
As it turned out we got to Barrow Creek as the sun was setting so it was absolutely time to pull up for the day. After a look around the Hotel and a look through the display and information on the whole business we drive a few kilometers up the road to a great little free camp- Matt’s Quarry. Tucked away a bit away from the road, nestle in with the spinifex grasses and with impressive views of red cliffs towering over our campsite. With the setting sun casting its warm glow upon them, they were lite up like a beacon.
Friday night had rolled around again. Burgers and movie safely tucked up in the van were enjoyed by all and it was a peaceful and quiets night rest.
A long travel day today. Again with no destination in mind just getting as many kilometres under our belts as we can. There were two stops we just couldn’t drive past though.
Firstly, Wycliffe Well – The UFO Capital of Australia. Who could go past such a quirky stop and we needed fuel. So it seems this spot is a bit of a hot spot for UFO sightings. It’s not surprising really, of an evening there is nothing else to do but stare up at the gorgeous night sky. We’ve certainly spent a lot of nights staring up at the stars since being in the NT and we have to confess to seeing some interesting and unexplained moving lights in the sky.
Our second stop was for lunch just up the road at the unique and beautiful Devils Marbles. The photos really tell the story I guess, big rocks that looks likes marbles.
As the sun started to dip in the sky and near the horizon I got busy with WikiCamps to find us a spot to pull up. We alway try and find something a bit off the road to limit the noise during the night from road trains. Gravel pit usually don’t make a great or scenic camp but this one had a 4 star rating. I was curious!
Turns out to be worth each one of those stars. A road leading to a large gravel pit set way back from the road. The pit itself was interesting and would have done but there were campsites along the road in. We selected one on a little rise that gave us a small view across the bush, complete with a campfire and surround by these flat green creeping bushes you could even call it pretty. A perfect spot for a good nights kip.
Our third long travel day in a row would eventually deliver us to Katherine. Although we did skip the ‘must stop’ Mataranka which I have regretted since. Fallen victim to our lack of research we learned of this gem after we’d reach Katherine and while I tried to find ways to get us back there it wasn’t to be. That’s one for the ‘next time’ list.
It was a long days drive with no stops of any significance other than the puncture and tyre change required 30 minutes out of Kathrine. We’ve been without any tyre issues the entire trip but have had three in the last month. Still its all part of the adventure and we are thankful for the fabulous bit of kit – Safety Dave tyre monitoring system, that alerts us as soon as the pressure suddenly decreases and we’ve been able to change/repair the tyre before any significant damage is done.
We pulled into Katherine Holiday Park just before the park closed for the night. It is a lovely park on or next to a nature reserve about 7km out of town.
Again we seemed to have a fair amount of chores and organising to do here, leaving little time for sightseeing. We had a pile of mail and parcels to collect, the usual shopping and restocking, tyre repairs, research and bookings to make for our time in Kakadu and school/project work to complete.
Two of our flat tyres have been to do with the valves now, (possibly all the airing up and down taking its toll), so Ken asked the guys to replace all the valves, rotate the tyres and balance the wheels too. The other thing Ken was busy with was booking and planning our time in Kakadu. With campsites, tours and permits to buy and book, he needed to research, plan and schedule our next week’s itinerary.
One of Charlotte’s school projects for this term was to plan, document, budget, cook, serve and clean up a 3 course meal for the family. She’d decided on a Mexican theme, done all the planning and documenting so we just needed the time and supermarket to complete the project. Our first shopping trip ended up being all about the fiesta dinner party and she was going to need all the space in the fridge for her gastro extravaganza.
Ken hung some party lights, put on Mexican music and we were treated to corn chip, chorizo and guacamole bites for entree, nachos for mains, and homemade ice cream sandwiches for dessert! So delicious, she’s a great cook and getting better at cleaning up after herself. She had fun and it felt like a real treat to have a night off cooking. It was a stroke of genius setting that assignment, one of my finer homeschooling moments.
We’d taken a big jump up the country and the climate certainly reflected that. The beanie, scarf and woollens have been put away, t-shirts, shorts and bathers are in! Swimming now is firmly on the cards. The park has a huge pool and we visited Katherine Hot Springs.
The springs were lovely, not too hot and not too crowded. There had been some reports of kids coming down and pinching phones and money while you swim and right enough, a few suspicious types turned up but they were watched by all like hawks and eventually the stares moved them on. The water was so clear and it was fun scrambling over a small waterfall to travel along a narrow little creek to the lower pools.
Lulu just loves the water, floating and kicking with delight. Georgia is an absolute fish, under the water more than she is above it and Charlotte loves it too but has recently been having trouble with pain in her ears when she goes underwater. With a lot of warm weather and swimming ahead of us I booked a visit to the doctor to have it checked out.
Unfortunately we ran out of time for a visit to Katherine Gorge which was disappointing, just another one for that ever growing ‘next time’ list. We are excited about our next adventure, Kakadu here we come.
It was school holidays and the show was on so finding accommodation was always going to be tricky. I rang every park and camp in Alice and the only one we could get into was the overflow of the Transport Museum. Turned out to be perfect as it was also the location the Chapman family had arrived at. They had met and travelled a couple of days with another family so we all set up in a circle around the fire pit. Three vans, nine kids and more to come in a few days.
We had four days here in Alice and as we drove out heading for Katherine we realised we’d done nothing and seen nothing in Alice Springs. However it felt like we’d been flat out like a lizard drinking, and that is the reality of life on the road. It’s not all tours, relaxing, fun and frolicking.
The Red Centre had lived up to its name and the van was filthy. I’d given up trying to keep on top of the red dust that was everywhere and in everything, but it could not be ignored any longer. The van needed a deep clean and the clothes a good soak and scrub in Nappy San, we were all starting to look like Oompa Loompas.
While I was busy cleaning, washing and restocking the freezer with meals Ken was sorting out car and van maintenance. Some of the rough road had broken bits, shook loose others and general wear and tear needed sorting before continuing on to more remote areas. Of course there was the usual school, child wrangling and lots of chit chat with the neighbours.
Our one awesome experience was on the night we arrived, the 1st of July, Northern Territory Day. It’s the one day of the year that fireworks are legal for just that day till midnight. The boys had ducked off to pick up some fireworks and planned to get amongst it. The plans to set them off in the campground came to a halt when the owners put a stop to it. After that we jumped in the cars and made our way into town for the official fireworks display. We arrived just in the nick of time and the younger kids delighted in the display.
Still having a car full of fireworks, the other families searched for a car park to set them off in, while we decided to head home. The night had had enough of a bang for us. We were talking with the other families on the UHF (along with the rest of Alice) and the air was cloudy and thick with cordite. Fireworks were going off left, right and centre. It certainly felt festive with a touch of crazy, just the way we like it really!
The NT certainly has the feel of another world about it. You just have to be here to soak it up. So as the current tourism advertising campaign says. C.U. in the N.T. Only in the Territory.
We backtracked a little to take the turn to Kings Canyon so today was a travel day and we’d be doing the 4 hour 6 km walk tomorrow. Both families had spotted this Morris Pass Lookout as a potential campsite to base ourselves at. What a winner. Set on top a ridge you have stunning panoramic views of the plains below and the ranges that are home to Kings Canyon.
We pulled the vans up next to each other and the kids disappeared down the ridge to explore. Finding themselves a cave to play in we hardly saw them the entire time we were at this campsite. It was a bit steep for Lulu to get up and down so we built a little bird’s nest from the rocks and paved the access way with stones.
Friday night had rolled around again. So it was burgers and movie night for the kids and quality adult time around the campfire with Brett and Mel. Good time, great fire, magical night skies and early to bed with a big walk the next day.
A must do epic walk, it was something we really didn’t want to miss but I have to say I was worried about how we were going to manage with Lulu. Back in Yulara I’d bought a 5 metre length of fabric and I’m hoping to make a sling for Lulu, she won’t go in the more structured sling we’ve carried around the country. Armed with snacks and sweets we set off at daybreak.
Lulu was a total star climbing up the steep rocky staircase that takes you up to the rim of gorge. Between the soft early morning light, the happy and energetic kids and stunning rock colours and formation it was a wonderful start. The wonder just continued throughout the whole walk. The big kids ran, leaped and chatted their way about. Not a single whinge, whine or complaint from any of them and Lulu was pretty awesome too.
She happily went in the sling (which she named painty) but I let her out whenever she wanted. Ken thought I was a little crazy letting her go in and out, in and out, but with a long way to go and the hope of using it for future walks through the Kimberley I didn’t want her to develop an aversion to it. On the upside, I was becoming very proficient at tying her on and getting her off without any assistance.
The whole walk was absolutely amazing! Everywhere you looked views, awe and wonder. Magnificent, ancient and unique rock formations, all set in the outback colour palette. Bright blue sky, deep red rocks. After our lunch stop at the Garden of Eden we passed the halfway point and powered on. Lulu was an absolute star and did the second half of the walk in the sling. This was so great as I was able to get into an enjoyable walking pace and rhythm and enjoy the views as well.
We were super proud of our girls and all enjoyed a well earned icy pole and rest in the afternoon. What a great adventure and so thrilled to have shared it with the Durstons.
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Ken and I were on a schedule as we have the car booked in to have its windscreen replaced and some auto electric repairs in three days’ time in Alice Springs. So we are off for a very quick trip through the West MacDonnell Ranges.
We selected Redbank Gorge for an overnight stay. The journey there was a bit of fun. It’s been great staying in convoy with the Durstons and chatting on the UHF, and has turned out to be pretty helpful too. Today it was Ken’s turn to lend some assistance to Brett. The roads were pretty rough and a fuel filter had shaken loose from the Chevy.
Other points of interest for the day were the roadside Brumbies, the stunning cliffs of the range and a brief stop at Tylers Pass Lookout. The lookout offered stunning 360 degree views including Gosse Bluff the meteorite site. It will be memorable for Charlotte as the spot where a stack of large rocks fell on her head.
There was a memorial / triangulation point stack of rocks and it looked like a metal bar ran through the middle of it. However when Charlotte got a little too close and gave the pole a wiggle the 3 or 4 rocks on top came down on her head. Other than the shock she was ok with a sore head for a couple of days.
From the lookout we made our way to the campsite which was full when we arrived. What to do? As we wandered around, looking for a camp this great couple offered to move their car (as they had not set up camp yet) and take a smaller site near us. It was so kind and decent of them. In the end we shared sunset with them and they came and joined us around the campfire at night. It was a great evening, he was a doctor and she an outback nurse and midwife so I was fascinated to hear their stories and the reality of health care and birth for Indigenous women.
In the morning we had planned to walk Redbank Gorge before heading back to Alice. To be perfectly honest we probably weren’t really feeling up to it and in the end we were let off when one of the kids had been unwell overnight. So after nearly a month of travelling together we farewell the Durstons. It has been such an enriching time that we are very grateful to have shared with them. It would have been very sad but we were consoled that it was just for a few nights, we’d catch up again in Alice.
The drive in was late in the day so we were treated to the afternoon light as we passed Mt Conner. Although it was late and we were keen to just get to camp we needed to stop for fuel at Coward Springs. Turned out to be a good thing as the fuel attendant told Ken to observe the profile of Kata Tjuta (formerly the Olgas) and see if we recognised any figure. He told Ken what to look for but Ken kept it to himself to see if I could guess ……… Yep Homer Simpson.
It was now dark but I could make out some figures on the road up ahead. Was it people? It looked like lots of legs. As we came closer through the darkness we realised they were wild camels. Earlier in our trip we had listened to the audio book Tracks: One Woman’s Journey Across Australia by Robyn Davidson. A city slicker who moved to Alice to learn all there was about camels and then walked from Alice to the Indian Ocean. It was a fascinating account and here we were now with wild camels in the middle of Australia.
We finally arrived in Yulara at about 7.30pm and had a spot allocated in the overflow section. Yulara is super busy at the moment. It’s definitely peak season and with this being the last year that Uluru is open for walking up, people seem to want to get in before it’s too late. That is a whole other subject, but we find it hard to understand why people are so keen to do it, knowing that it is a sacred site for the Anangu Aboriginal people. They request people respect their wishes and ask people don’t walk it, still folks blatantly ignore the sign and carry on up the rock. Each to their own I guess.
It’s late but it was super exciting to find the Chapman and Durston families set up opposite each other and a spot for us saved. All the kids were really excited to see each other again. It’s a great mix of age 13, 11, 11, 10, 8, 8, 7, 3 and 2 and they play so well together.
Our first day we took a walk into the town centre with a detour via a lookout to see Uluru. Wow impressive even from this distance. We had a little wander around town then found our way to the Wintjiri Arts & Museum Centre for the free talk on astronomy. We then walked back to the van, Lulu was tired and cranky. While carrying and feeding her she fell asleep, ugh, she is getting sooo heavy! I eventually got back to camp to find everybody already there, having caught the bus. Doh!
That night Ken had booked us on the Field of Light tour. It was freezing but fabulous. The bus picks you up and takes you out to the field and then you have 30 mins to wander through the 7,000,000 colour changing light bulbs. A stunning memorable experience.
The next morning we schooled and did the chores before the girls and Ken did an Aboriginal art lesson with local painter Bessie. They had a great couple of hours learning about the symbols and the time to produce their own painting. They all came back having loved the experience. Meanwhile Lulu and I had enjoyed a very peaceful time on our own in the van.
That afternoon we headed out to Kata Tjuta. We did the Walpa Gorge Walk and it was amazing for three reasons. Walks can be pretty arduous as Lulu never wants to walk or go in the sling, and I have to carry her all the way but after having had a great nap earlier, she was a happy, chatty little thing and walked all the way there and back. Secondly we just missed the big tour groups and ended up having the gorge to ourselves and thirdly it was beautiful, with huge towering rock walls and an awesome energy. It felt like a powerful place.
Kata Tjuta – Facts
36 domes covering 35sq km.
Highest dome (Mt Olga) 546m
1066m above sea level
It’s nearly in the middle of Australia, 1270km to Adelaide and 1420 to Darwin.
After our walk we spotted some more wild camels before leaving the national park to find some firewood, fly the drone and find a sunset spot. Turn to the west and the setting sun was lighting up the sky and clouds with reds, oranges and pinks then whip your head around to the east and you’re treated to the changing colours of the rock of Kata Tjuta and the hues of soft blues, purples and yellow of the sky. Pretty magical. The red dirt here is just so so red I love it against the contrast of the green bushes and our white skin. Sunset was as we’ve come to expect them, stunning. We are just loving the NT.
That evening, once we’d gotten the kids to bed and settled we lit the fire pit and us parents shared an evening around the fire. We’re really loving the social connection around the fire pit and just the general sharing of information and experience with Jayme and Rory and Mel and Brett.
The next day was a freezing early start. We were heading out to Uluru to hire bikes and ride around the base. Having sent our bikes home while in Melbourne we were all excited to go for a ride, but not just any ride, what an awesome experience. We set off at about 8.30am, the sun was just starting to warm things up and people were already walking up the rock.
At certain points around the base there was signage telling of the significance of this site, or the Creation story. These stories are known as Tjukurpa. Some sites were sacred and you’re not allowed to take photos. The shady side of the rock was very cold, green and lush with tall trees, then as you come around to the sunny side the landscape changes to arid desert shrubs.
It was an absolutely wonderful morning. Uluru is an awe inspiring place. I’m not sure if it is the sheer size of it or maybe the power and energy of the rock is inescapable. Either way there is no doubt about its allure and majestic magnificence. It has definitely been more epic than I expected.
After our ride we hung out around the Cultural Centre for a bit before heading back to camp for a lazy lunch and afternoon. It’s been a pretty busy time here in Yulara so far and it was nice for the kids and us to have a bit of down time. Evenings around the fire are always a hit with the kids and adults.
There has been a great program of free talks and events running throughout Yulara and out at Uluru during the season. We’d heard that the ranger talk happening that morning at Uluru was being led by an Indigenous ranger. Thinking that may add more significance to the stories and experience we went back out to the rock with the Durstons for the 2 hour walk and talk. The kids love a tour, listening to the story being told and how to keep up the front with the guide.
That afternoon we went back into the National Park for our first Uluru sunset. It was with a couple of other families and was a fun social occasion. Truly spectacular. The red of the rock and the colour of the sky that wraps around it. Breathtaking. So much so, that one wasn’t enough. We just had to go back the next day, our last night, for another.
Our last day was a bit of a potter day, with preparations for the next few days travel along the Red Centre Way, more free talks in the town centre (Bush Tucker and Bush Yarns), and collecting the tyre we’d had repaired. The Chapman family had already moved on a couple of days ago but we’d be continuing our time and travels with the Durston family.
Epic, nourishing for the soul and energising is how I would describe our time here. Loving the travelling life.
We’d been told this is the worst road in the NT. But we were pleasantly surprised by signs of a $5 million upgrade. There were a few patches of bitumen and the grader had recently been through so it really wasn’t too bad.
We were conscious that with road conditions it was going to be a long day but we all wanted to make a brief stop at Ewaninga Rock Carvings. This is a very powerful and important men’s place, in language called Napwerte. Petroglyphs or rock carvings are potent symbols of the laws and Creation Dreaming for the Arrernte people. Arrernte elders believe the meaning of the petroglyphs are too sacred and dangerous to be revealed to people not initiated in Aboriginal Law so we have little information but feel privileged to be able to come and look. It’s a short walk through beautiful red desert country and the colours are amazing.
The remainder of the day is through stunning country on rough, corrugated, dusty roads. We stay in pretty close contact with the Durstons but their Chevy rig outpowers us and they often creep ahead out of range of our UHF. The kids in each car have been enjoying chatting to each other and doing quizzes as we travel. We make a couple of other stops for firewood and drone flying before we reach the jump up that takes us through some dunes before reaching the Chambers Pillar campsite for our overnight stay.
I was driving at this point as Ken had been flying the drone so without much thought just carried on. The jump up was pretty cool, steep but ok, got the adrenaline running and the views at the top amazing. The road takes you along the top of this jump up for a bit before descending the other side. Still driving and not quite realising what lay ahead, we were in the descent before I knew it and it was too late to swap driver now. Holy heck the footage and photos don’t do it justice. Rocky and very steep but with Ken talking me through we got there. Towing 3.5 tonnes you can feel it pushing you down the hill so keeping control of the weight and picking that right line around the bend was nervy but probably because of my lack of experience. Whooo that was a bit of buzz, once at the bottom.
It was getting late in the day now and the afternoon glow was just lighting up the colour of the rock and landscape. We had a short dune section to go which I was thankful to have the Durstons out in front because you couldn’t see over them and just hoped no one was coming the other way. However at this late stage of the day most folk have already made camp and are settling in for night so it was unlikely.
Finally we arrive and eventually get on the last 2 sites. There is time for a quick set up and some of the crew to go for the walk to climb Chambers Pillar. Sunset was amazing, the colours on the pillar and rock stunning but it’s the subtle, ever-changing, hues of the sky that always makes me inhale deeply and drink in the beauty. It’s easy to focus on the setting sun in a sunset but if you do a 180, you’re treated to the gorgeous graduation of blues to purples to pink to orange to yellow to green and back to blue, love it!
It’s Friday night, so burgers and movie night for the kids and us parents get a double dinner date night around the fire. Good fun for all. With plans to get up for sunrise and having had a long day behind the wheel we retire early and brace for another freezing night.
Sunrise is indeed stunning and it’s not long before the kids are up and poking around the fire to get it going again. Usually Saturday morning is pancake morning and they are hoping to cook them on the plate over the fire. We need to get on the road but just love the kids having these memorable experiences and with friends too so say do it, but get quick about it.
The drive out is exciting following the same road through the dunes and that jump up again. Wow it really was steep and you hold your breath till you reach the top, good fun though. We then carry on back to Maryvale Station where we stop for fuel. Just outside of Maryvale we get a puncture. Our first for the trip. Turns out to be the valve rather than an actual puncture but it will be our first tyre change. Thankfully Brett is on hand so he and Ken sort it and I get to keep my hands clean again.
Fortunately there is a bit of a shortcut so we don’t have to go all the way back to Alice. The road is pretty good, red, sandy in places, corrugated in others. We eventually cross the railway line that connects the north of Australia to the south and not long after that hit the bitumen. We stop to air up the tyres, grab snacks and lunch for in the car and it’s bitumen all the way to Uluru.
Having had this trip already in the pipeline we have halted our Great Australian Adventure and headed to Europe via Perth.
Fulfilling a long wish to all holiday in Scotland together we are traveling across with mum and dad Glover before joining the Hall Clan to walk sections of the West Highland Way.
Making wonderful family memories, catching up with dear friends and taking advantage of not having a tight and fixed work/school schedule this is what we got up to in our photo blog.
What a vast contrast to the last isolated month we have had in Cape York.
What a bonnie time the Hall and Glover clans had together in Scotland.
Stronachlachar, Scotland
Our first AirBnB in Scotland at Stronachlachar in the Trossachs, a beautiful area of Scotland that feels very remote, yet is only an hours drive from Glasgow. It was our base for the southern part of the ‘West Highland Way’ walk.
Jodie and her boys capture the island on Loch Katrine!
Enjoying a boat cruise on the loch
Sunset views from the house
All ready for our first walk on the WHW – ‘Blamaha to Rowadennan’. The statue is of Tom Weir, famous Scottish broadcaster and climber – Tom inspired my imagination as a kid with his TV show ‘Weir’s Way’ in the 70’s and 80’s where he’d walk all the great walks of Scotland.Walking turned out to be a brilliant way to have great catch up conversations with our families that we only really see every few years.Love this image of my nephews, James and Michael. They are both troopers when it comes to walking.
One of the cracking days of sunshine, Loch Arklet in the background.A few us decided to tackle Ben A’an the “mountain in miniature” at 1,512 ft.Girl Power!
We all done this cracking walk on an old military track to Inversnaid following Loch Arklet from the house. Bruce completed it twice!
Ardgour House, Corran, Scotland
Brilliant nights with the family socialising in the great room at Ardgour House. This was to be our base for completing sections of the northern section of the West Highland Way. My brother Ryan and his partner Margret were able to join us for this week of the great clan Hall gathering of 2018.First up was was a walk around Glen Coe. Spectacular, breathtaking, the scale, beauty and ruggedness of this place is mesmerising.Lulu, loving it at the wee playground at the Clachaig Inn, where we all caught up for lunch.Nana and the girls
Another cracking walk in the Glen Coe area.Georgia, closing one of the gates behind us, the girls loved the walks in Scotland.The whole family took the Jacobite ‘Hogwarts Express’ from Fort William to Mallaig What a great experience and of course the kids loved all the Harry Potter connections.Luke and Charlotte all ready to depart from Platform 9 ¾
Seems like the adults needed a rest
Bruce and I took a walk up to the Glenfinnan viaduct where the crowd climb the hill to see the ‘Hogwarts Express’ come through.Glenfinnan Monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie and the 1745 Jacobite Rising Runner Up of the 2018 Clans talent competition!Charlotte & Luke competing in the Harry Potter Trivia compAunty Jodie took all the kids rock climbing at the National Ice Climbing Centre in Kinlochleven – Gold!Well done guys!Sadly it was time to leave our families and Corran and head our separate ways to explore more of Scotland.
The girls at Eilean Donan CastleNext up was a special treat for the girls organised by Bruce and Beccy at Shieldaig Lodge Falconry. The Harry Potter tour of Scotland continuesGeorgia had a ball, she just loves birds.
Was brilliant getting to spend some time with Bruce and Bec before we headed on our own to Skye.Gotta love the stunning Scottish landscapes
Skye, Scotland
Leonie’s seem more of Scotland that I have, but I get to visit Skye on the trip, the Skye bridge is in the background.Kilt Rock, Skye – changing dramatic scenery was just round every cornerOur AirBnB looked on to the dramatic Cuillins, inspired us to watch a bit of Outlander in the evenings!Colours, I wouldn’t normally associate with Scotland.Great family day out to Dunvegan Castle
We celebrated Leonie’s birthday in style at the award winning ‘Three Chimneys’ for lunch in Skye, the girls were amazing, really adventurous with their food choices and big thumbs up to the restaurant for making us feel really welcome as a young family.The quintessential Skye shot, love a Hairy-Coo!
Stow, Scotland
Next up was a big drive to Stow to catch up with our special friends from when we lived in Scotland, Paul and Helen. They always make us feel so welcome when visit and we all still pinch ourselves when we see our kids running amok together!We never let a homeschooling opportunity pass, and we had a great day out visiting Melrose and took the opportunity to pop into the science fair.Georgia made a new bestie!And I managed to go mountain biking around Stow with my old bestie.
Edinburgh, Scotland
And on the way through to Edinburgh, we managed to have a great wee catchup with another dear friend from my uni days Jen where we got to meet the gorgeous Iona for the first time. Edinburgh always brings back so many great memories for Leonie and I and the girls loved it.Of course, Charlotte was hyped to be in the birthplace of Harry Potter…
Diagon Alley
The sorting hat correctly chose Ravenclaw
Tom Riddle’s Grave!
We got to visit our old favourite places to eat!And just had a jolly good time!
Wellingborough, England
We couldn’t leave the UK without seeing my folks again, so we headed down to Wellingborough to spend a few more days with my my mum and dad and sister.
Crete, Greece
In some ways its sounds crazy to say we felt like we needed a holiday, but a week of doing nothing but eating, swimming, and sleeping in a beautiful setting certainly felt like it hit the spot.
Paris, France
We got to spend a few days in Paris, before heading back to Australia – Charlotte just loved it.
The Bastille Markets were a hit!
Perth, Australia
And then back to Australia, for Charlotte’s Christmas present to Taylor Swift live in PerthAnd we got to share Lulu’s 2nd Birthday with the family in Perth before heading back to Cairns to continue out Great Australian Adventure. Phew!
Fraser is a bit of a ‘Mecca’ for 4WD enthusiasts and it’s somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit. With us having to get up to Cape York and back before we head to the UK we did wonder if we had the time, but with being so close and unsure when we’d be in this area again it wasn’t too hard to commit.
Colin the service manger at Zone RV suggested we take the Van, but this early into the trip and not yet quite knowing how well I can tow tonne 3.5T through soft sand we had settled for leaving the van in Tin Can Bay, taking AUdrey the cruiser and staying at Kingfisher Bay resort on the west of the island.
We caught the ferry at River Heads, just outside of Harvey Bay. The weather was gorgeous and we could see a couple of dolphins playing just where the barge was moored before coming into pick us up.
Thirty minutes later we we’re rolling off up the wooden pier to the resort. I did wonderif I needed to deflate the tyres before getting on the island but the resort was mostly tarmaced – the sand would come later!
The bay looked fantastic with a few sailing boats moored up – reminded me very much of Monkey Mia in WA. After getting ourselves orientated we headed back down the beach to watch the sunset before dinner. What a sunset it was – the best so far of the trip.
After a buffet breakfast (the girls do love a buffet) we aimed to go visit the east of the Island and the wreck of the SS Maheno.
It was nearly right way we left the comfort of the bitumen and really got to understand what is meant by Fraser being the largest sand island in the world. Dropped the tire pressures to 25psi all round and drove over the Dingo Proof electrified cattle grid that helped protect the resort.
The tracks are narrow, with regular passing points but go straight through and up and down the island cutting through the differing forests. The tracks are not particularly tricky, but you do have to concentrate having to slow right down regularly so I don’t have our passengers and fridge bouncing off the roof or slicing open a tire with a jagged tree root.
The colours of forrest and sounds of the birds are soul warming. My new favourite – the Eastern Whip Bird – or as I like to call it the ‘Whip-Saw Bird’ sounds powerful, piercing through the trees.
It takes quite a while (at least an hour) to cross the width of the island to get to the Eastern beaches, but you are well rewarded leaving the closed in forest track and opening up to the wide expanse of Eastern beaches and the constant rolling waves of the sea.
We learned that the Western end of the Island is receding by 1cm per year while the Eastern end is growing at 2cm. So the Island is constantly getting bigger.
Driving up the beach at 80km/h is fun. You feel the sand through the steering wheel, there is a bit of looseness and a lag when turning. The word that comes to mind when trying to describe it is ‘flowing’, it kind’a reminds me of skiing!
There were a few occasions when we had to brake hard at washouts (caused by creeks running into the sea) that suddenly appeared in view, sliding 3.5 tonnes of car up the beach. A couple of times we needed to reverse a bit after these quick stops, to go either closer to the sea or island to find a less steep point to cross.
Leonie deciding to drive up one such ‘washout’ which turned out to be a reasonable creek!
When we’ve been driving north up the beach for at least 30 minutes you start to understand the scale of Fraser. It’s length is about 120km (same length as Hardrian’s Wall), and you can basically drive the whole Eastern side.
Eventually a large shape comes into view on the beach way in the distance through the sea spray, It’s awesome driving closer up the beach and seeing the shape come into focus and eventually drive right up beside Fraser’s famous landmark – the wreck of the Mahino.
Turns out the SS Mahino was built in Dumbarton, Scotland which is less than 5 miles away from where I was born!
And just to give us the prefect Fraser shot – a Dingo rocks up.
This is what the Mahino looked like in it’s heyday as an ocean liner transporting passengers between New Zealand and Australia around 1905.
All the kids wanted to do the next day was chill by the restort pool. So we went for a (long!) wander down the beach toward the old jetty. It turned out to be very long walk, but the girls had a ball especially seeing the thousands of soldier crabs marching down the beach.
Fraser’s other most famous attraction Lake Makenzie was on the agenda the next day, but the weather was looking a bit iffy!
Lulu at Lake McKenzie
Sure enough, we we’re on the beach for about 20 mins and it started to bucket it down. Sowe went to one of the fenced (dingo proof) picnic areas to have our luxury packed lunch the resort had made for us and I decided to go for a short walk along atiny bit of Frasers great walk which goes through the length of the island.
On the walk I came across this waterhole/billabong through the trees and knew it would make some great footage/photo, which I ended up entering in a Fraser calendar competition. Of course, another downpour occurred with me 2km from the lake. Forest was beautiful in the rain though.
We checked out the fine dining restaurant that night and couldn’t go past their Fraser interpretation of Chilli Sand Crab – correct choice! The girls, with Charlotte in particular love going to proper restaurants and mostly behave brilliantly, meaning Leonie and I can have a great time as well.
Another big forest and eastern beach driving day with some great winter weather took us to Champagne Pools near the northern tip of the Island and Eli Creek on the way back.
The Champagne Pools get its name from the way the ocean waves spill over as froth into the natural pools. The girls loved it, the colours we’re magical and there we’re even a few large fish in the pools. (Nice recommendation Shane V).
It’s quite amazing to find out that Eli Creek’s flows 4 million listers of fresh water into the ocean every hour! It’s a popular spot and the girls had a ball floating down it twice.
On our final day, as we planned to leave Fraser via the other ferry point on the south of the island taking us to Inskip Point, we had time to squeeze in a sea kayak to a little mangrove lined creek just north of the resort in the morning. Leonie loves canoeing, but it turned out Llewella wasn’t that keen so it ended up being quite stressful intermingled with some real beauty.
The drive to the souther tip was majestic given the weather really turned it on. We watched a pod of dolphins while waiting on the beach for the ferry to pick us up. There is facebook page called ‘I got bogged at Inskip Point’, so I made sure I was in low-range coming off the ferry and kept the gas on till clear of the point, turned out to be a non event, the rains must have made the sand nice and firm.
Easily go back to Fraser, we really only saw a fraction of it, might even take the van next time, or better still just the 4WD and a couple mates.
