
The road was pretty adventurous, some sections better than others, but you can see why trucks don’t come up here and supplies come in by barge. It’s bad enough during the dry and outright impossible during the wet. Still, the rock formations and scenery are picturesque.
We’d been looking forward to getting to the shop and stocking up on fresh food. Unfortunately the last fortnight’s order was a little light on and we arrived in the second week of the fortnight. We weren’t going to starve and it’s good for us to make do sometimes. Who knew packets of frozen veg were so good and made a meal a breeze to whip up!
After arriving at McGowans, Matt the manager gave us a thorough run through on what’s what and the local wildlife (snakes, sharks and Chopper the 5m saltwater croc), before showing us where we could pull up. Holy Heck! What a cracker of a spot. Our timing couldn’t have been better. We jagged the best campsite, if you ask us. Beachfront bliss! I have been hankering for the sound and sight of a beach again, and it doesn’t get much better.

Backed up to the rocks with the awning open out to a specky view. People were catching squid off the beach and fishing for whatever off the rocks. A few resident lemon sharks take care of the fish scraps and provide a fabulous graceful display coming in right up to the edge of the rocks at high tide.
I suppose there was stuff to do around the coast and in Kalumburu but with the exception of the Corroboree we planned to be complete beach bums. McGowans has a freshwater spring so we had a plentiful water supply and plenty of solar to meet our needs. It was about 35 every day but with the constant breeze / wind it was always pleasantly comfortable.

Our days passed by with school, play, fishing, eating, sleeping, reading, tanning and as always catching up and keeping up with the washing and cleaning. Without the distraction of the outside world I finally read a book! 16 months on the road and first chance I’ve had to read a book.
We are total novices at this fishing lark and it was apparent. With all the wrong gear we didn’t have any luck with catching the squid we were all hanging out for to have for lunch. Luckily we found a squid jig in the rocks on the first afternoon but after using it for 6 days with no joy and everyone else catching a feed I think it was an unlucky squid jig and I know why someone had thrown it into the rocks.

We did however learn a lot about squid and fishing. The girls got really great at casting and making the squid ink in the water and Ken finally caught us a few meals by heading out on a charter from Honeymoon Bay.
The kids had an absolute ball. Being outside, playing with loads of other kids, fishing, catching hermit crabs, exploring the rock pools and paddling in some rock pools at high tide while I stood lookout for Chopper and his girlfriends. It was totally crazy but perfectly safe watching the kids swim and play in the rock pool while just on the other side of the rocks (about a metre) next to them a 2 metre tiger shark swims by. Yep, that just happened, best not to say anything, just let them play.

Midway through our stay was the evening of the Corroboree. Kalumburu was established by a Catholic mission and the Corroboree coincided with Mass and celebrations of the Assumption of Our Lady. It was fascinating attending and watching the blend of Catholic rituals and Aboriginal culture. Following Mass was a shared meal for the community and visitors.
Two large fires had been lit, one for the male dancers and the other for the women. In the middle a screen had been made from branches and leaves. The dancers gather, clap sticks and singing starts and we are underway. Not knowing what to expect we just observed with interest. Soon though you couldn’t help but sense things weren’t going to plan. The dancing was great with one very strong vibrant dancer, however he seemed to have injured himself with his strong athletic moves. After 5 or so short songs it seemed to be over.

With a bit of confusion and protest from the women dancers the singers (men) sat down again and sang one last song for the women and girls to dance. The women seemed to have a strong group of women and girls of various ages. It was great to see but for the men not so, at the end one of the elders got on the microphone and apologised for the lack of dancers and was clearly disappointed and distressed about the lack of young people present to learn and willingness to preserve culture. It was sad to see.

At this point lots of people left but then we realised more was to come. I approached some local white ladies and asked a bit of what was going on, it was all a bit confusing and disorganised and she gave me the rundown on how 2 communities never turned up and the death of the great orator from the Kununurra mob had meant they were not as strong as other years.
The night ended with just a few more dances from the local Kalumburu mob. The costumes were amazing and while it all seemed like a laugh and fun for the locals I had expected a stronger show. The singer nor dancers came across with much passion and enthusiasm. It was wonderful to see but I left feeling sad for the community that the night wasn’t a lively celebration and strengthening experience for them.
The next day Ken took the opportunity to go on a fishing charter that took off from the other camp in Kalumburu – Honeymoon Bay, run by the famous Lancho. He ended up with a great haul because as well catching a fish, the practice of the charter was to split the catch up evenly. Fresh fish for tea, yay!

We loved it here and could have stayed longer but it was time to move on and seek more fresh food. We reluctantly left this awesome camp and had a very long driving day. We refuelled at Drysdale Station but pushed on hoping to make it to Mt Elizabeth Station. Unfortunately we fell short and spent the night in a 4 star roadside grader camp, Kennedy Creek.

It was a clean and quiet bush setting. Kenny built a fire, chopped wood and it was home for the night.










































































































