Gibb River Road – Week 2, Camps 121 & 122, Days 486-491,  McGowans Beach Camp, Kalumburu & Kennedy Creek grader camp, WA

The road was pretty adventurous, some sections better than others, but you can see why trucks don’t come up here and supplies come in by barge. It’s bad enough during the dry and outright impossible during the wet. Still, the rock formations and scenery are picturesque.

We’d been looking forward to getting to the shop and stocking up on fresh food. Unfortunately the last fortnight’s order was a little light on and we arrived in the second week of the fortnight. We weren’t going to starve and it’s good for us to make do sometimes. Who knew packets of frozen veg were so good and made a meal a breeze to whip up!

After arriving at McGowans, Matt the manager gave us a thorough run through on what’s what and the local wildlife (snakes, sharks and Chopper the 5m saltwater croc), before showing us where we could pull up. Holy Heck! What a cracker of a spot. Our timing couldn’t have been better. We jagged the best campsite, if you ask us. Beachfront bliss! I have been hankering for the sound and sight of a beach again, and it doesn’t get much better.

Backed up to the rocks with the awning open out to a specky view. People were catching squid off the beach and fishing for whatever off the rocks. A few resident lemon sharks take care of the fish scraps and provide a fabulous graceful display coming in right up to the edge of the rocks at high tide.

I suppose there was stuff to do around the coast and in Kalumburu but with the exception of the Corroboree we planned to be complete beach bums. McGowans has a freshwater spring so we had a plentiful water supply and plenty of solar to meet our needs. It was about 35 every day but with the constant breeze / wind it was always pleasantly comfortable.

Our days passed by with school, play, fishing, eating, sleeping, reading, tanning and as always catching up and keeping up with the washing and cleaning. Without the distraction of the outside world I finally read a book! 16 months on the road and first chance I’ve had to read a book.

We are total novices at this fishing lark and it was apparent. With all the wrong gear we didn’t have any luck with catching the squid we were all hanging out for to have for lunch. Luckily we found a squid jig in the rocks on the first afternoon but after using it for 6 days with no joy and everyone else catching a feed I think it was an unlucky squid jig and I know why someone had thrown it into the rocks.

We did however learn a lot about squid and fishing. The girls got really great at casting and making the squid ink in the water and Ken finally caught us a few meals by heading out on a charter from Honeymoon Bay.

The kids had an absolute ball. Being outside, playing with loads of other kids, fishing, catching hermit crabs, exploring the rock pools and paddling in some rock pools at high tide while I stood lookout for Chopper and his girlfriends. It was totally crazy but perfectly safe watching the kids swim and play in the rock pool while just on the other side of the rocks (about a metre) next to them a 2 metre tiger shark swims by. Yep, that just happened, best not to say anything, just let them play.

Midway through our stay was the evening of the Corroboree. Kalumburu was established by a Catholic mission and the Corroboree coincided with Mass and celebrations of the Assumption of Our Lady. It was fascinating attending and watching the blend of Catholic rituals and Aboriginal culture. Following Mass was a shared meal for the community and visitors.

Two large fires had been lit, one for the male dancers and the other for the women. In the middle a screen had been made from branches and leaves. The dancers gather, clap sticks and singing starts and we are underway. Not knowing what to expect we just observed with interest. Soon though you couldn’t help but sense things weren’t going to plan. The dancing was great with one very strong vibrant dancer, however he seemed to have injured himself with his strong athletic moves. After 5 or so short songs it seemed to be over.

With a bit of confusion and protest from the women dancers the singers (men) sat down again and sang one last song for the women and girls to dance. The women seemed to have a strong group of women and girls of various ages. It was great to see but for the men not so, at the end one of the elders got on the microphone and apologised for the lack of dancers and was clearly disappointed and distressed about the lack of young people present to learn and willingness to preserve culture. It was sad to see.

At this point lots of people left but then we realised more was to come. I approached some local white ladies and asked a bit of what was going on, it was all a bit confusing and disorganised and she gave me the rundown on how 2 communities never turned up and the death of the great orator from the Kununurra mob had meant they were not as strong as other years.

The night ended with just a few more dances from the local Kalumburu mob. The costumes were amazing and while it all seemed like a laugh and fun for the locals I had expected a stronger show. The singer nor dancers came across with much passion and enthusiasm. It was wonderful to see but I left feeling sad for the community that the night wasn’t a lively celebration and strengthening experience for them.

The next day Ken took the opportunity to go on a fishing charter that took off from the other camp in Kalumburu – Honeymoon Bay, run by the famous Lancho. He ended up with a great haul because as well catching a fish, the practice of the charter was to split the catch up evenly. Fresh fish for tea, yay!

We loved it here and could have stayed longer but it was time to move on and seek more fresh food. We reluctantly left this awesome camp and had a very long driving day. We refuelled at Drysdale Station but pushed on hoping to make it to Mt Elizabeth Station. Unfortunately we fell short and spent the night in a 4 star roadside grader camp, Kennedy Creek.

It was a clean and quiet bush setting. Kenny built a fire, chopped wood and it was home for the night.

Gibb River Road – Week 1, Camps 118-120, Days 480-485, Home Valley Station, Drysdale Station and Munurru (King Edward River), WA

So we start The Gibb today and I feel pretty under prepared in terms of meals cooked/frozen, and food supplies stocked up on, but also I know we’ll be ok. We always manage to scrape by, and eat like kings. I also think being on the road for so long now has conditioned us to just take it all in our stride, however in the back of my mind I know if this was a trip we were planning for from home we’d be super organised. That said we are still excited and looking forward to the adventure.

Emma Gorge is our first stop. Only up the road from last night’s camp, we get there early and have breakfast there and get ourselves ready. Water, hats, bathers, towels, sunscreen, noodles and snacks. We’ve heard great reviews and are looking forward to the walk in and the swim at the end. The girls always moan and complain about these walks before we start but often end up really enjoying it. Until it gets too hot, then it very quickly just becomes arduous and difficult and frankly none of us really enjoy those conditions.

Charlotte has started filming our GRR adventure and is just loving using the GoPro to capture everything, for Georgia the walk was not so much fun and hot but while she slows down she is not a vocal complainer. Lulu continues to love rock hopping and at times is very happy walking, it can be an absolute delight walking alongside her as she chatters away or sings a song.

As we walk further and further into the gorge the red cliffs begin to close in and we start following a stream of water and rock pools. Eventually we reach the bottom pool which you can swim at (with the local Freshwater Crocs) but at just the right moment a lovely couple are descending from the top pool and they encourage us to go on. Just what we need to push up that last climb and WOW, they weren’t wrong.

A large greenish pool awaits at the very end of the gorge with towering red cliffs. The waterfalls above have all but stopped running for this dry season but there is a steady dripping like raindrops. Green surrounds the cliff and the vegetation that lines what would be a fast flowing falls during the wet is like rainforest. The water – FREEZING. With the exception of the warmer pockets that flow from the hot springs that also feed into the pool on the right hand side. What a magical place.

The walk out was quick. Everyone was refreshed and Lulu was becoming a little too confident hopping from rock to rock at great speed. That soon ended when she jumped before I had steadied myself and we took a tumble, pulling me down with her. Luckily I was caught by a tall rock to my left and while I still had hold of her I couldn’t stop her hitting her head. It didn’t seem too bad but on inspection further down the track she had quite a large egg and small cut. Despite this stumble we seemed to be back at the car in no time.

A brief recovery from the walk, letting down of the tyres and knowing we were in for some rough road ahead, we really needed to get the morning dishes done and put away. It’s not all glamorous, gorgeous, gorges, there are still chores to be done. And we are on the road again. We were heading for the Pentecost River and Home Valley Station.

The drive was spectacular. Accompanied by the Cockburn Ranges all the way to the Pentecost River. It was now late in the day and the sun was setting. The ranges were lit up with that warm glow of light that turned the cliff faces into continuously changing shades of red. It’s about a 30 min show and we never get sick of watching it.

The Pentecost River crossing is dry but it’s still an impressive crossing as it’s so large a river and it’s not hard to imagine how it flows in the wet. Home Valley Station is just up the road and they have some bush camps along the river so we’re keen to stay there. The kids however want to stay at the station which has a pool! Turned out the gods favoured the kids’ desires as the bush camps were booked for a week long function. Ken was disappointed, but we ended up with a large site next to a stunning boab tree, the pool was great and with loads of other families staying and a playground, we hardly saw the kids the entire time.

Home Valley has a great vibe, and we had a great day around the pool but the highlight for Ken and I was getting down to the bush camp spot for sunset. Set right on the river it was crazy watching the tide fall so dramatically. Apparently the tides here in the Kimberley are some of the biggest. I’m not sure exactly what that means and haven’t bothered to work out why but it does only add to the theatre of the landscape.

Leaving Home Valley Station we are hoping to make it to the turn off for the Kalumburu Road and take it. Ken had read about a week ago about a Corroboree being held up in Kalumburu and that tourists are welcome. So with that and wanting to visit Mitchell Falls along the way we were set to detour off the Gibb River Road for a bit.

Along the way we met another cyclist, David from the Basque Country, Spain. He started off in Albany and is heading to Darwin. It’s always fascinating learning what drives these mentally tough, strong and a little crazy folk to embark on these epic adventures and I guess we admire them a little, or a lot. So we had a great chat, topped him up with cold water, and left him with an apple, kiwi fruit and some prosciutto. He was stoked and looking forward to a good lunch today.

The road was rough and heavily corrugated but we eventually pulled into Drysdale Station for fuel and an overnight stop. It was basic but again full of super nice travelling folk. It really is amazing how many nice people you find travelling around the country. It makes you wonder if it is a certain type of person who embarks on these kinds of adventures or is it just that our interactions are brief, so it’s always just the pleasantries. It was a peaceful and quiet night.

In the morning we filled up our water tanks, schooled and as always were the last to leave camp. Today was not a long drive as we made our way further north up the Kalumburu Road to Munurru Camp (formerly King Edward River Camp). We were going to make our base here in order to visit the Mitchell Falls. The Aboriginal people have only recently been handed back this land and are now running the campsite.

It was very warm but you can swim here in the King Edward River. I was a little dubious about swimming (crocs are always in the back of your mind), as the water wasn’t clear but it is a well known swimming spot. Later in our stay the local Aboriginal guide reassured us it was ok, ‘too far from the sea for the saltwater crocs’ he said. The swim was refreshing and always helps everyone relax, changing from a hot and bothered mood to cool and calm.

The next day we set out early for Mitchell Falls. It was going to be a big walk for our little family so we opted to do the helicopter flight up to the falls and walk back. It was an hour and a half bumpy drive before the flight. The morning was windy but the flight went well. It was exhilarating, stunning views of the falls, the kids can be nervous on these things but they loved it and it was just me this time who was nervous and glad to be on the ground again. It has no door on the chopper or Jesus bars to hang on to so those steep banks left and right to take in the views had me on the verge of freaking out.

The falls itself was stunning, very little water and only running a trickle. Georgia was single handedly about to hold back the flow of the Mitchell Falls that morning. We had a short walk to the swimming place at the top of the falls before making our way down. The walk wasn’t too bad, 3.5km. It was warm over the exposed rocky section. Then after Merton Falls a cool forest section, followed by sandy track for a bit and back to rocks. Unfortunately it was in the heat of the day now and the kids and I were not enjoying it much at this point. It didn’t help that Lulu was grisly, tired, breastfeeding as we walked and eventually fell asleep with at least 1km left to walk. Ugh!

There is another swimming hole and Aboriginal art worth a visit on the walk but we were over it all by now, Ken had run out of water and we all just wanted to get back to the car and cold bottles of water that awaited us. Lulu woke up in the last 5 mins of the walk but still didn’t want to walk but at least she was happy. The mood definitely improved when we reached the car, shade and cold water. Great experience but glad it was over.

On the drive home we stopped a few times to fly the drone and collect firewood. Upon getting back to camp we booked into the morning’s guided tour of the local Aboriginal rock art and went down to the river for a swim. It was an early night to bed that night and no one had any trouble getting off to sleep.

We were going to depart the next day after the rock art tour but I think we were all a little pooped from the day before and just feeling like we needed a down day. So we did the tour and hung out at the camp for another day. The tour was fabulous and the art amazing. Having Terry, a local elder, made the art site so much more meaningful. Before leaving the site Terry performed a smoking ceremony on us to ensure we left the bad spirits at that place and didn’t take them with us, what an insight into the culture we received that morning. Fabulous!

The camp is well run, spacious and had the best bush loos we’ve come across. I forgot to get a photograph of the sign in the toilet but it welcomed people to country and asked that they care for and respect the land, camp facilities and its traditional owners past and present.

I have to say it was lovely to be welcomed as a guest on Aboriginal land and asked to respect and connect to the place. It’s always struck me in the Aboriginal communities we have visited the amount of rubbish that is littered around and seemingly dumped anywhere. I always wonder how it can be that a culture that places such high value on its connection to land and country can live amongst so much litter and rubbish. These people however seemed to have made the connection of litter and harming the land. A great stay here. Next stop Kalumburu.

Camp # 117, Day 479, Cockburn Rest Area, W.A.

Leaving Lake Argyle this morning we had planned to start the Gibb and hoped to make it to Home Valley Station. But we were a little ambitious so pulled up a little short of even getting on the Gibb River Road. Still it was a great day.

We’ve seen a few cyclists on the roads and have said we should always stop, have a chat and see if they need anything or just want a coffee or some COLD water. So we see a bike and decide to stop, then realise there is another. Cool, it’s a couple I think. Then we pass them and realise they have TWO KIDS with them on tandem bikes. Now that’s hard core!

What legends, having ridden from Tassie they are doing a lap and have a bunch of schools following their travels and progress as an online one year geography lesson. They make 5 min videos and have a great little website to track them. Being teachers this has been developed to cover the Australian curriculum, so amazing. Google them, The Sway Family.

It was getting pretty hot and while they still had a bit of distance to cover, meeting people along the road and in towns is a big part of their trip. So we cranked up the coffee machine, got the kids some ice creams and put the air conditioner on. It wasn’t long before the kids were painting and playing with babies and more folks who were following their progress had seen the bikes and stopped for a chat too. We topped them up with cold water, took the photos and it was back on the road for everyone. Gorgeous, amazing people and happy lovely kids. The girls were pretty amazed and realised just how easy they’ve got it.

Kununurra was a rushed post, shop and fuel stop before we made our way down to the Ivanhoe Crossing for a late lunch and the game of tetris that is putting the shopping away. Ken wanted to fly the drone as we crossed so while I was feeling nervous about doing the crossing I also wanted to get that great footage so talked myself around. It was now getting late, the light was softer, images beautiful and fishermen out trying to catch themselves some dinner. Nothing more needs to be said here just watch the video.

The final leg of the drive was fun, I really don’t drive much but do love to get behind the wheel. Dirt roads for a bit, then smooth bitumen once we got back on the Victoria Hwy. The scenery is really beautiful as the sun sets on the Cockburn Ranges and as is typical in the northern parts of Australia, the rock turns from pastel orange, to vibrant orange, to red and finally brown once the sun has gone for the day. Then you get to watch the sky put on its show of delicate sunset hues.

The roadside stop is pretty full but we pull up next to a family from Israel. The kids play for a bit and we are about to have our late dinner and clearly something pretty awful has happened to their little boy. It’s pitch black and he’s screaming in pain so we get them to come in the van so we can see how to best help. It seems his sister kicked him down the ladder and he landed on his face. Blood, swelling and pain, it looks awful but not too bad. We clean him up a little, get some ice and check him out but we all think a hospital trip can wait if they observe him closely overnight.

Despite being so close to the road it was a pretty peaceful night. It has actually turned out perfectly as we had missed walking Emma Gorge while staying at El Questro, and it looked like we were just going to have to miss it altogether. But seeing as we haven’t passed it yet, we realise we can do it on our way past tomorrow. It gets great reviews so we were pretty sorry to be missing it. Hopefully with an early start we can enjoy the walk in before it gets too hot.

Camp # 116, Days 474-478 , Lake Argyle, WA

We’ve done a bit of backtracking to not miss out on time at Lake Argyle. We’d planned for Georgia’s birthday at El Questro and just had to scoot past to get there on time. So glad we went back, not only is it beautiful but fascinating and only added to the fabric of our Kimberley adventure.

So firstly some information on Lake Argyle. I knew nothing other than it was big and there were pink diamonds nearby. Back in 1883 the Durack family arrived in the East Kimberley and established themselves as leaders in the beef industry. It was some years later, in the next generation of Duracks, that the idea of building a dam to harness the abundant resource of the Ord River to sustain an agricultural industry in the fertile plains of the lower Ord River arose. During the wet the Ord was a fast flowing furious river and during the dry season reduced to a series of billabongs.

The building of the dam would transform semi-desert cattle country into a lush, year-round agricultural area. So Lake Argyle is the first part of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. Formed with the construction of the Ord River Dam (completed in 1963), and now a hydro-electric power station (completed in 19.), has tamed the Ord River which flows year-round, down to Kununurra (a town created to support the scheme). At Kununurra the Kununurra Diversion Dam (completed in 1963) was designed to divert water from the Ord River onto the Ivanhoe Plain for irrigation.

We were fortunate to take a flight from Kununurra to see the Bungle Bungles. An added bonus is getting an aerial perspective of the landscape and the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. It is just amazing to drive home the enormity of vision and labours that came to be, to bring this dream of the Kimberley Duracks to fruition. One of Australia’s most significant engineering feats. There are plenty of stats one can rattle off that speak to its epic tale but it’s just gob-smacking that this semi-desert landscape now supports a thriving agricultural industry.

The campground is well organised and affords warm Kimberley hospitality, and by that I mean music in the evening. Our first evening we took our chairs up to the grassed area overlooking Lake Argyle and watched the acoustic set with the most amazing backdrop. The colour of the cliffs changing through various shades of red as the sun sets and the sky working through the different hues of blue, purple and pink. The kids ran around playing with the other kids and Ken and I got to share one of those rare moments of being alone.

The next day we visited the old Durack Homestead Museum. The homestead was set to be flooded when the lake filled and it was at the 11th hour a working party got busy dismantling it stone by stone, numbering as they went and it was eventually rebuilt becoming the museum it is today. That afternoon we joined the sunset cruise on Lake Argyle. A fascinating and beautiful few hours. It was a little windy and too chilly for Ken and I to take a dip as the sun was setting but the kids had a ball jumping off the boat. All to the backdrop of yet another stunning Kimberley sunset.

In the back of our minds, through all this awe and wonder, is that we may only have half the story. If there is one thing we have learnt on this trip, it is, there are many shades, of green, red, grey, blue and perspective. What about the environmental impact on the land, ecosystems and connection to this country of its traditional owners. What did they think of their country being flooded?

We had made the decision to take a flight over the Bungle Bungles. The kids weren’t that keen on the look of the helicopter and while they weren’t that fond of the Lake Eyre flight, didn’t seem to mind it in the end. So we drove back into Kunnu’s, did a little shopping, ogled at a few Argyle Pink Diamonds and went to the airport. I’d like to say it was great and the scenery and commentary was faultless but for some reason Ken and Georgia became airsick. Charlotte was feeling pretty uncomfortable, Lulu did her usual and fell asleep and other than being concerned for the rest of the family, I had a great flight.

By the time we got to the Bungles (approx 1 hr flight time), Charlotte was begging to go home, Ken was filling sick bags and now Georgia was also asleep. So Beck, our pilot, and I decided to just do a quick fly by and head directly home. The scenery of the whole flight was stunning, the aerial view of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, Packsaddle Plains, Ord River Dam, Lake Argyle (all 65km of it), Texas Downs Cattle Station, The Carr Boyd Ranges, The Bungle Bungles, Argyle Diamond Mine and the Cockburn Ranges. It really was fantastic but no one wanted to get back in a small plane ever again.

After a few hectic days we decided on a couple of down days, just hanging about camp. Cleaning, cooking, schooling, preparing to start the Gibb River Road and Ken was still recovering from the flight. And we’d promised the kids a swim in the stunning but freezing and famous infinity pool. Such a stunning view, who could refuse. It was indeed freezing and had me thinking of Tassie.

On our final night we popped down to the bar for a beer and a dance. A lot of this travelling life hasn’t felt much like a holiday, most of the time it’s pretty hectic. But here in the Kimberley there have been the moments where it really feels like a holiday. The warmth / heat has definitely slowed us down and increased the need for a cold beer and icy pole more often. The Kimberley sure has a great vibe.

Camp #115, Days 467-473 , El Questro Station, WA

The drive in starts to build the excitement for what we are to expect. Stunning scenery and a couple of long but shallow river crossings and you arrive at the station. We found our site (nice and tight, more spacious if you choose unpowered) and got set up.

Music starts at 5.30 pm so we walked up to reception, the wee shop and bar to check out the vibe. An amazing setting as you sit out in the cool of evening surrounded by boab trees, bougainvillea, festoon lights, music, the colours of a Kimberley sunset and a happy vibe in the air. It feels like a holiday.

The next morning we get right to it with an early morning start to Zebedee Springs. A hot spring that is only open for the morning, 7 a.m. – 12 p.m. We arrive right on seven hoping to miss the crowds and tour buses but it seems everyone had the same idea. Still there was actually enough room to feel not overcrowded and all friendly nice travelling folk anyway.

The water temp is perfectly warm but not too hot and there are many little pools as the water cascades down the rocky gorge over small climbable waterfalls. The light is filtered through the palms and trees above and the water colour crystal clear. We had the most amazing time here climbing up falls, wallowing in little pools and getting massaged by water rushing down the waterfalls.

The girls met some friends and scrambled from pool to pool. Lulu was cautious at first but eventually she too was scrambling and just loving the independence. Most pools she could reach the bottom and stand in. Hours passed but eventually it was time to think of getting home and breakfast.

This is where the day took a turn for the worse. We were drying off having a few boiled eggs and then Georgia stumbled to the ground before having a seizure. She’d never had one before and it was distressing for all of us to watch and of course for her to experience. Luckily she came out of it quickly and there was a paediatric nurse from Switzerland swimming who came over to offer assistance and reassurance. Not knowing why this had happened we decided to go back into Kununurra to have her checked out in hospital.

The day wasn’t much fun for Georgia being poked and prodded at hospital but she was extremely brave and endured some pretty uncomfortable stuff. Being a lover of all things cat, she did however perk up at the mention of having a CAT scan. That and the gift her sister bought her were the only highlights of an otherwise emotional and miserable day.

As with all the kids’ birthdays there is always much excitement and today was no different. LOL’s (Georgia’s favourite toy for the last few years), was the theme of this birthday, so it was all things LOL’s this year. Cake, decorations, balloons, gifts and she loved it!

[Photo of Georgia’s LOL birthday decorations and cake]

It was an early start at about 0530 but the birthday girl was awake and couldn’t wait. The rest of the day was just relaxed, playing with toys, decorating and eating cake and then watching the sun set over the Kimberley at Saddleback lookout. We returned to the van for Georgia’s requested dinner of sushi burgers. A delight she discovered in Darwin and thankfully not too tricky to replicate. Happy 8th Birthday Georgie!

The following day we visited El Questro Gorge doing the gorge walk to the Halfway Pool. Only 2.6km of scrambling through rocky riverbed, and picking your way through some muddy sections. Eventually you meet up with the spring-fed creek offering shallow, clear pools of water and the soundtrack of a babbling brook. It’s a beautiful walk through the towering Kimberley red rock gorge and you’re rewarded with a fresh but lovely swim at the end.

I’d packed a picnic lunch and we’d found a nice large flat rock to sit upon to enjoy the views back down the gorge and to the pool we would soon swim in. It wasn’t just the girls who enjoyed the picnic but the fish in the water hole below the rock we were perched on. They had loads of fun watching the fish feed and chase each other hoping to steal another bit of burger pattie.

The swim was beautiful and it’s at this point folk choose to climb up the falls and carry on for the rest of the gorge walk but for us we were content. Lulu did great. She doesn’t like boring old walking but once there are a few rocks to scramble and climb over, well, “put me down, I do it”. And she is now just swimming on her own with a noodle and loving the freedom to kick about and go where she pleases in the water. Such joy!

The drive out to El Questro Gorge takes you through one of the deepest river crossings, aptly named Deep Water Crossing. Ken loves getting the car wet, I guess it’s the sense of adventure and maybe a saving on his efforts to wash the car. After a rest in the arvo we took a drive out to Branko’s Lookout for sunset. A fun and adventurous drive through river crossings, past the Durack Tree and up a steep hill, to be rewarded with stunning views.

Our fifth day at El Questro saw more adventure with Ken starting off at sunrise to go heli-fishing and the girls a few hours later finally doing a little horse riding. The heli-fishing is as it sounds I guess, flying in a helicopter to inaccessible and remote fishing spots. Ken dreams of catching a 1 metre barramundi on this trip, but it wasn’t to be today. The experience was epic though. Nipping around the station to 3 different sites taking in beautiful scenery and the thrill of chasing that barra. To Georgia’s delight he did catch a catfish but let it live to die another day.

The horse riding went really well. The girls just loved it. Today was just a brief 30min get familiar with the horse and riding and tomorrow we are going to do a one hour ride together. I loved horse riding when I was younger and am hoping the girls might also develop a real passion for riding too. With the first ride under their belts we were all looking forward to the next day. A beautiful trail through the bush, rocky riverbeds and a couple of river crossings ourselves. The girls did well for first timers and loved their horses, Charlotte on Rose and Georgia on Mango.

El Questro was turning out to be a real delight. Our final days we enjoyed a visit from Val and Martin for lunch, (Val has known me since I was a toddler). It was so lovely to spend some time together and share stories and knowledge of travels around the area. More swimming at picturesque swimming hole, Moonshine Gorge, an outdoor movie one evening and a night out at the restaurant.

Bravo El Questro!

Camps # 114, Days 464-466, Katherine & Zebra Rock Mine, NT

Today we leave Darwin for a two-day drive to El Questro Station where we are going to enjoy a fabulous 5 days to celebrate Georgia’s birthday. With a few final errands to run in Darwin we eventually left Darwin just before lunch.

It was a pretty uneventful drive through to Katherine. We had hoped to get a little further down the road but with a late departure and the lure of some G’s to have a good enough internet connection to publish more blog posts we chose to pull up just outside of Katherine.

Munbullo Homestead Caravan Park was lovely and shady. A sweet little park and we met some lovely travellers. Pulling up early was great as it gave us the chance to do the schooling we never got done in the morning. Term 3 started today and we have been working hard to catch up on Maths and don’t want to see it go pear shaped on day one.

Home schooling has definitely been one of the biggest challenges of the trip. It’s been a real roller coaster for all of us I think and while we have a bit of rhythm now it has required great discipline to maintain any momentum we gather. However with that said, as we start to look ahead to the next stage of the girls’ education I think we are all feeling what a great experience this has been and how lucky we are.

Our intention of an early getaway evaporated as Ken and the fellow next door got into an in-depth conversation on the intricacies of vans, batteries, solar and car set-ups. It was an interesting exchange so we didn’t sweat it and it was another midday departure.

It was a beautiful drive. A few hours in and you hit Judbarra / Gregory National Park, Stokes Ranges, the Victoria River and boab tree country. All of a sudden you are surrounded by inspiring views and bewitching boab trees. Their curious and gnarled form is so intriguing. I would have loved to have stopped and photographed them all but we were really pushed for time.

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Turns out time beat us. We had hoped to make the Zebra Rock Mine Gallery and Campground but arrived too late. Instead we camped on the roadside just near the gate to the mine. It was off the main road so was pretty quiet and with the moon not rising till late we were graced with another dazzling display of a Northern Territory night sky. It felt like a fitting way to spend our last night in the N.T. The next morning we had breakfast and made our way into the Zebra Rock Mine hoping to catch the morning tour. Unfortunately our late nights led into late mornings and even though we arrived at 10am thinking this would be a good morning tour time we had missed it by an hour.

Still the lady was super friendly and after a wander through the gallery the kids had a go at polishing their own piece of Zebra Rock. A unique little experience and a warm wonderful vibe. You could easily stay here for a day or two and enjoy the beautiful stone and hospitality. For us though it was onwards with excitement to our home state and the Western Australia border!!!!

[Photo of the kids polishing Zebra Rock]

After border checks it’s a short drive to Kununurra where we stocked up on food, fuel and had a fleeting rendezvous with a dear family friend Val. I received a message as we were driving into town saying she was here and around for a week, maybe we could catch up. Five minutes later we are standing out the front of Coles Kununurra hugging.

With plans made and a massive shop complete we were on our way over the Ord River Diversion Dam to El Questro Station. I have to confess I have done little research on what to expect at El Questro but with a sense of excitement in my belly I think we are in for something special.

Camp # 113, Days 460-463, Darwin ,NT

The trip out of Kakadu wasn’t particularly scenic but we were basking in the glow of having such a great time it didn’t really matter. About 50k out of Darwin we did stop to help an Aboriginal family on the side of the road. With their car half off and half on the road it was obvious they needed help. We had the tools they needed but no idea what to do with them and they had the knowledge but not the tools, so it worked well.

It was a great education in bush mechanics for us and we were just pleased to get them back on the road. They’d been stuck there since about 11am so they were also in need of water and food. They spoke English well but it wasn’t their first language and it was great listening to them talk away in their own language. Finally we were all back on the road but it was now getting pretty late.

Being a day early we couldn’t get on our booked site so just pulled onto some grass for the night, unhitched and went straight into Darwin to the Mindil Beach night markets. What a fabulous vibe and night. We took some food for Georgie just in case we couldn’t find anything suitable, but it wasn’t needed as we discovered ‘sushi burgers’.

[Photo of Mindil Beach night markets]

“No way”, you say! And it gets better, you could get a crocodile sushi burger. Well, Georgia was in heaven. She’d had crocodile in Dubbo and loved it so she was mega thrilled. Turned out to be a total winner and not the last time we’d see Miss Sushi Burger lady.

[Photo of Georgia with her crocodile sushi burger]

We all enjoyed the market food, stalls, massage and magic tricks. It was a top little night out (and night off cooking). A great way to kick off our Darwin experience.

The following day was spent sorting out some car issues and eventually getting onto our site and set up. By then the day had almost gone but it wasn’t too late to visit another night market, this one in Palmerston. Again a great vibe and a lot of the same vendors, including sushi burger! The temperature is just so mild and pleasant it’s a lovely way to just spend the evening with music, food and a few treats for the kids. We all left relaxed and happy campers again.

We’d heard the story of Sweetheart when we did the bush tucker safari because it was Patsy’s (the Aboriginal guide’s) husband, Dave, that led the team to relocate Sweetheart. Unfortunately Sweetheart drowned in the capture after the tranquilliser affected his respiratory systems. It’s been an interesting perspective we’ve received on crocs here in the N.T. Turns out they do have a social structure and maybe a little more clever than we were led to believe in Queensland.

We wrapped up our outing today with a visit to the Wharf Precinct. Restaurants, playground, wave machine pool and lagoon. While it was warm and tempting to swim it was a little too late so after a play we made for home. With the promise to return the next day.

We were keen to visit the N.T. Art Gallery and Museum and it was a wonderful visit. Celebrating 50 years since the moon landing, they had some great activities on for the girls. But the main attractions were the Cyclone Tracy exhibition, the history of Darwin and the massive 5m croc called Sweetheart.

With Georgia’s birthday less than a week away now we are having some early celebrations with a trip to the cinema this morning and the afternoon spent at Waves. An added bonus was another visit to the Mindil markets on the way home. We caught the sunset this time, with about 200 other people, before seeking out yet another sushi burger, paw paw salad and pizza for Lulu and Charlotte. Darwin will be remembered for its night markets for sure.

Our last day we were without the car. With a little list of repairs we weren’t expecting it back but grateful to be getting some niggling issues sorted before we embark on the Gibb River Road. It was also a good day to catch up on washing and cooking.

The day did indeed get away from us, again. We still wanted to visit the Military Museum and learn about the bombing of Darwin during WWII, so the kids and I grabbed an Uber and had just enough time to wander through before they closed.

[Photo of the kids at the Darwin Military Museum]

235 people died, with 300 – 400 wounded in the first attack on the 19th of February 1942, but Darwin continued to be bombed for another 20 months. Those who were evacuated were unable to return to their homes until 1946 and when they did little was left. Darwin was a strategic base with the only harbour and aerodromes, military and civil, in northern Australia. I don’t remember learning anything about this growing up so felt it was important to come and get an understanding and for the girls to learn of it too.

It feels like we’ve only just scratched the surface of Darwin but unfortunately we need to keep moving. Another one to pop on the list for next time.

Thank you 🙏 Darwin.

Camp # 112, Days 458-459 , Kakadu – Ubirr, NT

The free ranger talks throughout Kakadu are just fantastic, and it’s an easier and more enjoyable way for us all to take in the information. A lovely walk out in nature, and on this fine morning we were looking at some rock art at Burrungkuy and hearing Dreaming stories of the Namarrgon – Lightning Man and his children.

He brought electrical power to the rock and his spirit resides here in the East Arnhem Land escarpment. Here he watches over the country and wakes up during the wet season. Darwin and Kakadu can receive more lightning strikes in one hour than Perth gets in a whole year.

Also at this site you can visit a shelter that was used by the Aboriginals as a dwelling during the wet seasons as recently as the 80s. Wonderful that people were still living a traditional life that recently here. Feeling privileged to have learnt so much of this wonderful culture this morning it was time to head north for our campsite at Ubirr – Merl Campground.

Throughout Kakadu there are a number of mining leases. As we drove through one of these today we realised we were no longer in national park so we stopped to collect firewood and some turkey bush. Turkey bush is not the botanical name but on our bush tucker safari we learnt it was great for creating a mozzie repellent smoke. You take some hot coals from the fire and set some turkey bush, old and flowering, on the coals and smoke the place up. It was effective and has a reasonably pleasant smell.

We stopped again in Jabiru for supplies and lunch in the van. Hitting the G’s (Telstra 4G’s) is always exciting and we used the chance to get Charlotte’s school application in. It did mean we were going to be arriving later than we had hoped but it was good to get the application away.

Arriving at Merl Campground we selected a lovely private campsite and settled in. The sunsets here are spectacular! The location up on a rocky outcrop giving an elevated position and view across the wetlands combined with the smoke haze from the burn offs made for a very dramatic red setting sun. Memorable for sure and is going to be right up there as one of the best sunsets on this adventure.

We are tantalisingly close to Arnhem Land here and Ken had heard of an art centre you could visit. You need a permit and as per the conditions are not allowed to stop anywhere in Arnhem Land other than the art centre. It was worth the trip and permit. The drive was spectacular, gave us the excuse to do the famous Cahills Crossing and the art stunning. A totally different style here. No dots but fine, fine lines.

Returning from Arnhem Land we took a moment to view the crocs at the crossing. There are a number that live here and are very active so it’s a well known croc spotting spot.

That afternoon we did another free ranger guided walk about the art sites at Ubirr which finishes up at the sunset spot. Lulu is becoming quite the climber and when she is feeling a little determined or cheeky there’s a few heart in mouth moments, either as I’m watching or when I realise she’s disappeared and I have no idea where she is only to discover her at the top of a rock pillar. I was so cross with her, but heck she looked so great I just had to get a quick picture before giving her a stern mummy was worried talk.

We had planned to stay another day but felt we had covered all we wanted to see and are starting to feel like we are running out of time. A day gained here is a day somewhere else just as amazing or more. With that in mind we decided to head to Darwin tomorrow. A little excited about this as we realised it is the only capital city in Australia we haven’t been to.

Thank you Kakadu and its traditional owners past and present for affording us such a wonderful visit on country. Gamuk. Ma baw baw (in language), meaning, thank you. It was good time, see you again.

Camp # 111, Days 455-457, Kakadu – Cooinda, NT

We’d been hearing reports of another must-visit swimming hole, Maguk, just down the road. We didn’t have a lot of spare time but the lure of these remote swimming holes was too much. We jumped in our bathers and began the 1 km walk, firstly through dense rainforest then the terrain changes to rocky river bed. At one point crossing the creek on some well placed stepping stones.

This is a managed crocodile area, meaning there is a crocodile trap upstream and any unwanted crocs are relocated. Still the warning signs need to be in place warning that Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles can enter the area undetected at any time. Right there and then you think, no way am I going to swim if there’s a chance. However you continue the walk getting hotter and hotter as you approach the sound of a large waterfall and eventually through the clearing you see this magnificent large swimming hole. Teal green waters, various shades of outback red sheer cliffs on either side and a cascading waterfall at the far end.

Once you catch your breath, (from the beauty and the walk), you realise there’s about 40 people here swimming now, there’s been more this morning and the entire dry season so far and you start rationalising away the earlier held fears. The water was warmer than Gunlom and as I swam into the middle of the pool my body took in a deep inhalation of air and the surrounds followed by a long breath out. As you soak it all in you feel yourself and your body just relax and let go.

Then in the very next moment a thought of those pesky crocs comes into my mind and I’m briskly swimming back to the exit, trying to stay calm. ‘Just keep swimming, just keep swimming’. No matter, we didn’t have time for a long lavish afternoon of relaxation. Feeling refreshed we ready ourselves for the walk back.

We are on a schedule today as we are booked on a sunset cruise this evening on the Yellow Water wetlands in Cooinda. Cooinda is a hive of activity and a base for all visitors to Kakadu to maybe do a couple of tours and visit the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.

We have booked 3 nights here and hit the ground running. Arriving with just enough time to set up before making our way down to the wetlands. We jump on one of the 3 boats going out, (it’s a busy operation), and straight away you realise, these are the images of Kakadu you have seen all your life. Expansive wetlands teeming with bird life, crocs and water buffalo.

Our very knowledgeable and passionate captain and guide delivered us an amazing evening. Masses of whistling ducks, Australian darter, Azure kingfisher, Black-necked stork or Jabiru, Brolga, comb-crested jacana, egrets of all kinds, Magpie goose, Green Pygmy goose, a Nankeen night-heron and the impressive white-bellied sea eagle. Throw in the Blue-winged kookaburra and rare rainbow pitta I observed at Gunlom, it’s easy to see what all the bird watching hype is all about. It’s magnificent!

The cruise finishes with more crocs and a magical Kakadu sunset. I don’t know if it is the magic of Kakadu or the mass of burn offs going on at this time of year but the sunsets are spectacular. Some of the best so far. The wetlands have made an amazing recovery from the days when buffalo numbers and industry were out of control. It’s a good news story for the water lilies, lotus and ecosystems, but as we were to learn the next day the cane toad has had a devastating effect on the carnivore marsupials and reptiles of Kakadu.

Next we had booked a unique and hands on experience with Bush Tucker Safari. This is a small group tour with local Aboriginal woman, Patsy and Don. This is Patsy’s country and at approximately 60 years of age she has the knowledge, grace and cheekiness of an Aboriginal elder.

It was a fabulous afternoon collecting all the necessities from the bush to have a traditional meal cooked in a traditional paperbark oven. So we stopped and learnt about the what and the why and then gathered what we needed before continuing to the dinner spot, with a few stories thrown in along the way. Such an education, we ate the heart of one of the palms – good walking food, sweet and moist and green ants – lemony and half a handful (no more) and your headache and pain be gone.

Collected wood for the fire, turkey bush for smoking in smaller fires to keep the mozzies away, young palm frond for learning to make string, fresh green leaves to cook on, large sheets of paperbark for the oven, and lumps of termite mound for the fire; it burns like heat bead / hot rock. Earlier that day Patsy had hunted for Magpie Goose and as she and her husband managed the only buffalo farm in Kakadu it was goose and buffalo in the oven for dinner.

Arriving at the dinner spot it was hands on setting up, setting fires, making fire, plucking the geese, preparing sweet potato, and making damper. Once dinner was in the paperbark oven, Patsy taught us how to make string to make the baskets and dilly bags. What a long process, even for a seasoned professional like Patsy. It’s now easy to understand why the bags and baskets can cost up to $2000.00. A large bag could almost be a lifetime’s work.

Despite being eaten alive by the mozzies it was an amazing experience, accompanied by another amazing Kakadu sunset. Truly beautiful. The more we learn about the Aboriginal culture the more we come to admire it, and its people. And you can’t ignore the ignorance, brutality, lies and deception that our own people have bestowed upon them since we arrived. Hopefully it’s not too late to save the remaining culture, languages and people whose spirit is from this land and returns to this land. We could learn so much from them if we were willing to be quiet and listen.

Our last day in Cooinda we visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. A fabulous display, sharing of story and knowledge and account of the Indigenous peoples experience of Kakadu over the years. It feels wonderful in the way the elders have been so open about sharing the stories and knowledge but the sad truth is it has maybe been born out of the fear and realisation that there are not enough young people to carry it on.

However the white rangers here in the park do an amazing job of sharing with great passion and respect the teachings they have been passed on by the old people. You really come away with a sense of responsibility that we all need to ensure the culture and stories are not lost. That evening we took in another magic sunset at Nawurlandja lookout before getting all packed for an early departure the next day.

Camp # 110, Days – 453 & 454, Kakadu – Gunlom, NT

We have just spent two night as the stunning Gunlom campsite and wow! The Northern Territory just keeps kicking goals. Everyone says on the lap of Oz Tassie and the Kimberly’s are the highlights. With the Kimberly’s still to come I suppose we’ll have to wait and see but gee the N.T. is just smashing it right now.

We left Katherine this morning and drove straight up to Kakadu. With a quick stop at the first information centre we continued on to the turn off for Gunlom and let the tries down. An hour and a half of unsealed, dusty and corrugated roads (bringing back memories of Cape York) and we arrived at a busy but spacious and well set, (showers and toilets), camp.

Lulu was due a sleep and lunch for all and by then it was getting late but we were determined to head up the range to the top of the Gunlom falls and see this spectacular natural infinity pool. The track was graded difficult and with a toddler, it certainly was challenging in places, but oh so worth it.

We arrived on sunset. Too cold for me to swim but Ken and the girls braved it and the view and colours of the sunset were spectacular. A vast vista framed with dramatic red / orange granite and glassy pools of green water. The sounds of tumbling water, chatter of evening birds and the knowing that this is a special place to the Jawoyn aboriginal people, who belong to this country, makes it feel spiritual.

Bula the most important Jawoyn creation ancestor created this. They are happy to share it with us, but want us to know its an important place and we must do no wrong. If Bula is disturbed he could cause disaster. When Bula passed through he bought Bulong, the rainbow serpent and its believed he still resides in the plunge pool below. Kakadu was handed back the the aboriginal people and it feels like a privilege to be on there land.

Being conscious of the fading light and the tricky decent we made our way down before the colours of sunset faded. The girls did great and the head torches came in as it was indeed dark by the time we got over the scrambling section and on to the path. The head torches also provided the girls with much entertainment as they were able to spot all the reflective eyes of the little spider all over the grass and bush. Less afraid and more fascinated was the feeling which was great as Charlotte is easily spooked by our 8 legged friends.

The next morning we had decided to postpone school in order to get an earlish start up the track and have more time enjoying the upper pools of Gunlom. Lulu and the girls love the scrambling but its always easier when Lulu is fresh and happy. We had a wonderful morning and the girls played with a number of the kids all getting totally engaged in a number of creative games.

Ken enjoyed a brief swim but capturing as much of the magic on his camera kept him busy. A brief snack with the best views, a final swim and play on the massive pool noodle nature provided, in the form of a tree trunk and we’d had the most wonderful morning. We descended for lunch and a rest before an evening visit to the plunge pool at the bottom of the water fall.

No crocs to worry about up top but there are a couple of local freshies, (freshwater cros) here in the plunge pool. The girls were hesitant but after seeing the shallow sandy clear waters and all the other swimmers they were soon frolicking and having a total blast with a couple of kids. In the end everyone had left. With just the six kids laughing and playing and us parents peacefully sitting watching them play, create and ooze fun and joy. As if that wasn’t magic enough the backdrop behind them was epic! Magic memories right there.

Our visit at Gunlom was completed with an early morning walk with the ranger. Wanting to get on the road to visit Maguk Falls a little up the road we stayed with the group for the plunge pool part then headed back to camp to finish pack up and get on the road.

A brilliant adventure thank you to the Jawoyn for sharing and caring for this country.