Author: Leonie

Today we leave Darwin for a two-day drive to El Questro Station where we are going to enjoy a fabulous 5 days to celebrate Georgia’s birthday. With a few final errands to run in Darwin we eventually left Darwin just before lunch.

It was a pretty uneventful drive through to Katherine. We had hoped to get a little further down the road but with a late departure and the lure of some G’s to have a good enough internet connection to publish more blog posts we chose to pull up just outside of Katherine.

Munbullo Homestead Caravan Park was lovely and shady. A sweet little park and we met some lovely travellers. Pulling up early was great as it gave us the chance to do the schooling we never got done in the morning. Term 3 started today and we have been working hard to catch up on Maths and don’t want to see it go pear shaped on day one.

Home schooling has definitely been one of the biggest challenges of the trip. It’s been a real roller coaster for all of us I think and while we have a bit of rhythm now it has required great discipline to maintain any momentum we gather. However with that said, as we start to look ahead to the next stage of the girls’ education I think we are all feeling what a great experience this has been and how lucky we are.

Our intention of an early getaway evaporated as Ken and the fellow next door got into an in-depth conversation on the intricacies of vans, batteries, solar and car set-ups. It was an interesting exchange so we didn’t sweat it and it was another midday departure.

It was a beautiful drive. A few hours in and you hit Judbarra / Gregory National Park, Stokes Ranges, the Victoria River and boab tree country. All of a sudden you are surrounded by inspiring views and bewitching boab trees. Their curious and gnarled form is so intriguing. I would have loved to have stopped and photographed them all but we were really pushed for time.

Turns out time beat us. We had hoped to make the Zebra Rock Mine Gallery and Campground but arrived too late. Instead we camped on the roadside just near the gate to the mine. It was off the main road so was pretty quiet and with the moon not rising till late we were graced with another dazzling display of a Northern Territory night sky. It felt like a fitting way to spend our last night in the N.T. The next morning we had breakfast and made our way into the Zebra Rock Mine hoping to catch the morning tour. Unfortunately our late nights led into late mornings and even though we arrived at 10am thinking this would be a good morning tour time we had missed it by an hour.

Still the lady was super friendly and after a wander through the gallery the kids had a go at polishing their own piece of Zebra Rock. A unique little experience and a warm wonderful vibe. You could easily stay here for a day or two and enjoy the beautiful stone and hospitality. For us though it was onwards with excitement to our home state and the Western Australia border!!!!

[Photo of the kids polishing Zebra Rock]

After border checks it’s a short drive to Kununurra where we stocked up on food, fuel and had a fleeting rendezvous with a dear family friend Val. I received a message as we were driving into town saying she was here and around for a week, maybe we could catch up. Five minutes later we are standing out the front of Coles Kununurra hugging.

With plans made and a massive shop complete we were on our way over the Ord River Diversion Dam to El Questro Station. I have to confess I have done little research on what to expect at El Questro but with a sense of excitement in my belly I think we are in for something special.

The trip out of Kakadu wasn’t particularly scenic but we were basking in the glow of having such a great time it didn’t really matter. About 50k out of Darwin we did stop to help an Aboriginal family on the side of the road. With their car half off and half on the road it was obvious they needed help. We had the tools they needed but no idea what to do with them and they had the knowledge but not the tools, so it worked well.

It was a great education in bush mechanics for us and we were just pleased to get them back on the road. They’d been stuck there since about 11am so they were also in need of water and food. They spoke English well but it wasn’t their first language and it was great listening to them talk away in their own language. Finally we were all back on the road but it was now getting pretty late.

Being a day early we couldn’t get on our booked site so just pulled onto some grass for the night, unhitched and went straight into Darwin to the Mindil Beach night markets. What a fabulous vibe and night. We took some food for Georgie just in case we couldn’t find anything suitable, but it wasn’t needed as we discovered ‘sushi burgers’.

[Photo of Mindil Beach night markets]

“No way”, you say! And it gets better, you could get a crocodile sushi burger. Well, Georgia was in heaven. She’d had crocodile in Dubbo and loved it so she was mega thrilled. Turned out to be a total winner and not the last time we’d see Miss Sushi Burger lady.

[Photo of Georgia with her crocodile sushi burger]

We all enjoyed the market food, stalls, massage and magic tricks. It was a top little night out (and night off cooking). A great way to kick off our Darwin experience.

The following day was spent sorting out some car issues and eventually getting onto our site and set up. By then the day had almost gone but it wasn’t too late to visit another night market, this one in Palmerston. Again a great vibe and a lot of the same vendors, including sushi burger! The temperature is just so mild and pleasant it’s a lovely way to just spend the evening with music, food and a few treats for the kids. We all left relaxed and happy campers again.

We’d heard the story of Sweetheart when we did the bush tucker safari because it was Patsy’s (the Aboriginal guide’s) husband, Dave, that led the team to relocate Sweetheart. Unfortunately Sweetheart drowned in the capture after the tranquilliser affected his respiratory systems. It’s been an interesting perspective we’ve received on crocs here in the N.T. Turns out they do have a social structure and maybe a little more clever than we were led to believe in Queensland.

We wrapped up our outing today with a visit to the Wharf Precinct. Restaurants, playground, wave machine pool and lagoon. While it was warm and tempting to swim it was a little too late so after a play we made for home. With the promise to return the next day.

We were keen to visit the N.T. Art Gallery and Museum and it was a wonderful visit. Celebrating 50 years since the moon landing, they had some great activities on for the girls. But the main attractions were the Cyclone Tracy exhibition, the history of Darwin and the massive 5m croc called Sweetheart.

With Georgia’s birthday less than a week away now we are having some early celebrations with a trip to the cinema this morning and the afternoon spent at Waves. An added bonus was another visit to the Mindil markets on the way home. We caught the sunset this time, with about 200 other people, before seeking out yet another sushi burger, paw paw salad and pizza for Lulu and Charlotte. Darwin will be remembered for its night markets for sure.

Our last day we were without the car. With a little list of repairs we weren’t expecting it back but grateful to be getting some niggling issues sorted before we embark on the Gibb River Road. It was also a good day to catch up on washing and cooking.

The day did indeed get away from us, again. We still wanted to visit the Military Museum and learn about the bombing of Darwin during WWII, so the kids and I grabbed an Uber and had just enough time to wander through before they closed.

[Photo of the kids at the Darwin Military Museum]

235 people died, with 300 – 400 wounded in the first attack on the 19th of February 1942, but Darwin continued to be bombed for another 20 months. Those who were evacuated were unable to return to their homes until 1946 and when they did little was left. Darwin was a strategic base with the only harbour and aerodromes, military and civil, in northern Australia. I don’t remember learning anything about this growing up so felt it was important to come and get an understanding and for the girls to learn of it too.

It feels like we’ve only just scratched the surface of Darwin but unfortunately we need to keep moving. Another one to pop on the list for next time.

Thank you 🙏 Darwin.

The free ranger talks throughout Kakadu are just fantastic, and it’s an easier and more enjoyable way for us all to take in the information. A lovely walk out in nature, and on this fine morning we were looking at some rock art at Burrungkuy and hearing Dreaming stories of the Namarrgon – Lightning Man and his children.

He brought electrical power to the rock and his spirit resides here in the East Arnhem Land escarpment. Here he watches over the country and wakes up during the wet season. Darwin and Kakadu can receive more lightning strikes in one hour than Perth gets in a whole year.

Also at this site you can visit a shelter that was used by the Aboriginals as a dwelling during the wet seasons as recently as the 80s. Wonderful that people were still living a traditional life that recently here. Feeling privileged to have learnt so much of this wonderful culture this morning it was time to head north for our campsite at Ubirr – Merl Campground.

Throughout Kakadu there are a number of mining leases. As we drove through one of these today we realised we were no longer in national park so we stopped to collect firewood and some turkey bush. Turkey bush is not the botanical name but on our bush tucker safari we learnt it was great for creating a mozzie repellent smoke. You take some hot coals from the fire and set some turkey bush, old and flowering, on the coals and smoke the place up. It was effective and has a reasonably pleasant smell.

We stopped again in Jabiru for supplies and lunch in the van. Hitting the G’s (Telstra 4G’s) is always exciting and we used the chance to get Charlotte’s school application in. It did mean we were going to be arriving later than we had hoped but it was good to get the application away.

Arriving at Merl Campground we selected a lovely private campsite and settled in. The sunsets here are spectacular! The location up on a rocky outcrop giving an elevated position and view across the wetlands combined with the smoke haze from the burn offs made for a very dramatic red setting sun. Memorable for sure and is going to be right up there as one of the best sunsets on this adventure.

We are tantalisingly close to Arnhem Land here and Ken had heard of an art centre you could visit. You need a permit and as per the conditions are not allowed to stop anywhere in Arnhem Land other than the art centre. It was worth the trip and permit. The drive was spectacular, gave us the excuse to do the famous Cahills Crossing and the art stunning. A totally different style here. No dots but fine, fine lines.

Returning from Arnhem Land we took a moment to view the crocs at the crossing. There are a number that live here and are very active so it’s a well known croc spotting spot.

That afternoon we did another free ranger guided walk about the art sites at Ubirr which finishes up at the sunset spot. Lulu is becoming quite the climber and when she is feeling a little determined or cheeky there’s a few heart in mouth moments, either as I’m watching or when I realise she’s disappeared and I have no idea where she is only to discover her at the top of a rock pillar. I was so cross with her, but heck she looked so great I just had to get a quick picture before giving her a stern mummy was worried talk.

We had planned to stay another day but felt we had covered all we wanted to see and are starting to feel like we are running out of time. A day gained here is a day somewhere else just as amazing or more. With that in mind we decided to head to Darwin tomorrow. A little excited about this as we realised it is the only capital city in Australia we haven’t been to.

Thank you Kakadu and its traditional owners past and present for affording us such a wonderful visit on country. Gamuk. Ma baw baw (in language), meaning, thank you. It was good time, see you again.

We’d been hearing reports of another must-visit swimming hole, Maguk, just down the road. We didn’t have a lot of spare time but the lure of these remote swimming holes was too much. We jumped in our bathers and began the 1 km walk, firstly through dense rainforest then the terrain changes to rocky river bed. At one point crossing the creek on some well placed stepping stones.

This is a managed crocodile area, meaning there is a crocodile trap upstream and any unwanted crocs are relocated. Still the warning signs need to be in place warning that Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles can enter the area undetected at any time. Right there and then you think, no way am I going to swim if there’s a chance. However you continue the walk getting hotter and hotter as you approach the sound of a large waterfall and eventually through the clearing you see this magnificent large swimming hole. Teal green waters, various shades of outback red sheer cliffs on either side and a cascading waterfall at the far end.

Once you catch your breath, (from the beauty and the walk), you realise there’s about 40 people here swimming now, there’s been more this morning and the entire dry season so far and you start rationalising away the earlier held fears. The water was warmer than Gunlom and as I swam into the middle of the pool my body took in a deep inhalation of air and the surrounds followed by a long breath out. As you soak it all in you feel yourself and your body just relax and let go.

Then in the very next moment a thought of those pesky crocs comes into my mind and I’m briskly swimming back to the exit, trying to stay calm. ‘Just keep swimming, just keep swimming’. No matter, we didn’t have time for a long lavish afternoon of relaxation. Feeling refreshed we ready ourselves for the walk back.

We are on a schedule today as we are booked on a sunset cruise this evening on the Yellow Water wetlands in Cooinda. Cooinda is a hive of activity and a base for all visitors to Kakadu to maybe do a couple of tours and visit the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.

We have booked 3 nights here and hit the ground running. Arriving with just enough time to set up before making our way down to the wetlands. We jump on one of the 3 boats going out, (it’s a busy operation), and straight away you realise, these are the images of Kakadu you have seen all your life. Expansive wetlands teeming with bird life, crocs and water buffalo.

Our very knowledgeable and passionate captain and guide delivered us an amazing evening. Masses of whistling ducks, Australian darter, Azure kingfisher, Black-necked stork or Jabiru, Brolga, comb-crested jacana, egrets of all kinds, Magpie goose, Green Pygmy goose, a Nankeen night-heron and the impressive white-bellied sea eagle. Throw in the Blue-winged kookaburra and rare rainbow pitta I observed at Gunlom, it’s easy to see what all the bird watching hype is all about. It’s magnificent!

The cruise finishes with more crocs and a magical Kakadu sunset. I don’t know if it is the magic of Kakadu or the mass of burn offs going on at this time of year but the sunsets are spectacular. Some of the best so far. The wetlands have made an amazing recovery from the days when buffalo numbers and industry were out of control. It’s a good news story for the water lilies, lotus and ecosystems, but as we were to learn the next day the cane toad has had a devastating effect on the carnivore marsupials and reptiles of Kakadu.

Next we had booked a unique and hands on experience with Bush Tucker Safari. This is a small group tour with local Aboriginal woman, Patsy and Don. This is Patsy’s country and at approximately 60 years of age she has the knowledge, grace and cheekiness of an Aboriginal elder.

It was a fabulous afternoon collecting all the necessities from the bush to have a traditional meal cooked in a traditional paperbark oven. So we stopped and learnt about the what and the why and then gathered what we needed before continuing to the dinner spot, with a few stories thrown in along the way. Such an education, we ate the heart of one of the palms – good walking food, sweet and moist and green ants – lemony and half a handful (no more) and your headache and pain be gone.

Collected wood for the fire, turkey bush for smoking in smaller fires to keep the mozzies away, young palm frond for learning to make string, fresh green leaves to cook on, large sheets of paperbark for the oven, and lumps of termite mound for the fire; it burns like heat bead / hot rock. Earlier that day Patsy had hunted for Magpie Goose and as she and her husband managed the only buffalo farm in Kakadu it was goose and buffalo in the oven for dinner.

Arriving at the dinner spot it was hands on setting up, setting fires, making fire, plucking the geese, preparing sweet potato, and making damper. Once dinner was in the paperbark oven, Patsy taught us how to make string to make the baskets and dilly bags. What a long process, even for a seasoned professional like Patsy. It’s now easy to understand why the bags and baskets can cost up to $2000.00. A large bag could almost be a lifetime’s work.

Despite being eaten alive by the mozzies it was an amazing experience, accompanied by another amazing Kakadu sunset. Truly beautiful. The more we learn about the Aboriginal culture the more we come to admire it, and its people. And you can’t ignore the ignorance, brutality, lies and deception that our own people have bestowed upon them since we arrived. Hopefully it’s not too late to save the remaining culture, languages and people whose spirit is from this land and returns to this land. We could learn so much from them if we were willing to be quiet and listen.

Our last day in Cooinda we visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. A fabulous display, sharing of story and knowledge and account of the Indigenous peoples experience of Kakadu over the years. It feels wonderful in the way the elders have been so open about sharing the stories and knowledge but the sad truth is it has maybe been born out of the fear and realisation that there are not enough young people to carry it on.

However the white rangers here in the park do an amazing job of sharing with great passion and respect the teachings they have been passed on by the old people. You really come away with a sense of responsibility that we all need to ensure the culture and stories are not lost. That evening we took in another magic sunset at Nawurlandja lookout before getting all packed for an early departure the next day.

We have just spent two night as the stunning Gunlom campsite and wow! The Northern Territory just keeps kicking goals. Everyone says on the lap of Oz Tassie and the Kimberly’s are the highlights. With the Kimberly’s still to come I suppose we’ll have to wait and see but gee the N.T. is just smashing it right now.

We left Katherine this morning and drove straight up to Kakadu. With a quick stop at the first information centre we continued on to the turn off for Gunlom and let the tries down. An hour and a half of unsealed, dusty and corrugated roads (bringing back memories of Cape York) and we arrived at a busy but spacious and well set, (showers and toilets), camp.

Lulu was due a sleep and lunch for all and by then it was getting late but we were determined to head up the range to the top of the Gunlom falls and see this spectacular natural infinity pool. The track was graded difficult and with a toddler, it certainly was challenging in places, but oh so worth it.

We arrived on sunset. Too cold for me to swim but Ken and the girls braved it and the view and colours of the sunset were spectacular. A vast vista framed with dramatic red / orange granite and glassy pools of green water. The sounds of tumbling water, chatter of evening birds and the knowing that this is a special place to the Jawoyn aboriginal people, who belong to this country, makes it feel spiritual.

Bula the most important Jawoyn creation ancestor created this. They are happy to share it with us, but want us to know its an important place and we must do no wrong. If Bula is disturbed he could cause disaster. When Bula passed through he bought Bulong, the rainbow serpent and its believed he still resides in the plunge pool below. Kakadu was handed back the the aboriginal people and it feels like a privilege to be on there land.

Being conscious of the fading light and the tricky decent we made our way down before the colours of sunset faded. The girls did great and the head torches came in as it was indeed dark by the time we got over the scrambling section and on to the path. The head torches also provided the girls with much entertainment as they were able to spot all the reflective eyes of the little spider all over the grass and bush. Less afraid and more fascinated was the feeling which was great as Charlotte is easily spooked by our 8 legged friends.

The next morning we had decided to postpone school in order to get an earlish start up the track and have more time enjoying the upper pools of Gunlom. Lulu and the girls love the scrambling but its always easier when Lulu is fresh and happy. We had a wonderful morning and the girls played with a number of the kids all getting totally engaged in a number of creative games.

Ken enjoyed a brief swim but capturing as much of the magic on his camera kept him busy. A brief snack with the best views, a final swim and play on the massive pool noodle nature provided, in the form of a tree trunk and we’d had the most wonderful morning. We descended for lunch and a rest before an evening visit to the plunge pool at the bottom of the water fall.

No crocs to worry about up top but there are a couple of local freshies, (freshwater cros) here in the plunge pool. The girls were hesitant but after seeing the shallow sandy clear waters and all the other swimmers they were soon frolicking and having a total blast with a couple of kids. In the end everyone had left. With just the six kids laughing and playing and us parents peacefully sitting watching them play, create and ooze fun and joy. As if that wasn’t magic enough the backdrop behind them was epic! Magic memories right there.

Our visit at Gunlom was completed with an early morning walk with the ranger. Wanting to get on the road to visit Maguk Falls a little up the road we stayed with the group for the plunge pool part then headed back to camp to finish pack up and get on the road.

A brilliant adventure thank you to the Jawoyn for sharing and caring for this country.